Category Archives: Travel Musings

Turkey Dinner

08 Wednesday Aug 2012

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Tonight we had dinner at a Turkish mall. 

Let me explain. We’ve booked our lodging through Roomorama, and got a really cheap deal on a room in Istanbul with full use of an apartment that has wifi and laundry. The owner is in Hong Kong for the week, so we have the place to ourselves at least for a few days, until some other guests arrive. About $15 a night per person for our own apartment? Yes, please! 

The other advantage (mostly) is that we’re in a completely residential area of Istanbul, called Mecidiyiköy, which is a couple metro stops away from Taksim Square, on the European side of the city. I’m pretty sure we’re the only tourists around. Our street is rife with burger joints, grocery shops, and locals just doin’ their thang. 

There is also a huge mall, Profilo, about a block away. That’s where we ate dinner last night. 

Why the heck would you eat dinner in a mall in Istanbul? You might be thinking. Not a strange question, as I would probably ask the same myself to any other traveler telling me this story. For good reason! I reply. The locals directed us to it! And I kid you not. 



Like most travelers, Boris & I prefer not to eat in super touristy areas. Prices are better, and usually quality is higher, when you get out of the craziness of the tourist district in any city you’re in. Istanbul is no different. So, being in a normal neighborhood, we asked a lady on the street where she recommended to eat. In broken English, she told us the name of a place that was pretty cheap, and gestured directions. With the name in mind, we turned and went in search of this local eatery, wondering what it would be like.

We stopped a couple times and asked for directions of a group of men sitting in a little convenience store. They gave us a thumbs up when we asked whether this place was good, and proceeded to direct us to the food court of Profilo Mall. And so we went. 

We ate a two-course meal with Turkish apple tea at Otantik, which is a Turkish chain. The prices were good. The food was good. The waiter was nice. And again, we were the only tourists in the place. Apparently there are other locations in more trafficked parts of town, but we were hanging out in the mall in Istanbul for dinner. There was also a KFC in the food court. 

My Favorite 5: Things to Do in Scotland

07 Tuesday Aug 2012

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When I agreed to go a bit out of my way to hike in the Scottish Highlands, I wasn’t sure what I was getting into. Scotland was on my list of travel destinations, to be sure, and hiking in the Cuillins with a photojournalist sounded pretty good, despite the fact that we had never met in person before. Turns out, Scotland is one of the most breathtaking places I’ve been privileged to visit, in every sense of the word.

Oban

 Here are my favorite 5 things we did in Scotland:

View in Oban


Isle of Skye (#1-3): Kat, my travel companion, really wanted to head for the hills on this trip. She’s an avid hiker and has summited a jillion things. I was game to try to keep up as well as I could, and so we took an early morning bus to the Isle of Skye.

The Isle of Skye is in the Inner Hebrides, a series of islands off the western part of Scotland. It’s also home to some of the most striking landscapes I’ve ever seen: lush, rolling hills with patches of forest, waterfalls rushing down rocks and glimmering lakes in places you’d never expect. The highlights of our trip really took place here, with no frills except those provided by nature.

How the heck can anything be so beautiful!? 

Clouds drifting in above the Fairy Pools waterfalls

After our swim in the Fairy Pools. It was COLD.

1.       Glen Brittle: Not even a true village or town, Glen Brittle is where you want to position yourself if you ever go to the Isle of Skye. It’s along only one road, at the end of which is a campground and lake reaching into the sea. We stayed at the Glen Brittle Scottish Youth Hostel, which was located minutes away from trailheads leading to some of the coolest hikes I’ve ever been on. We swam in the Fairy Pools and made our way up a mountain to find a stunning lake. I think specific posts deserve dedication to what we did and saw there, so stay tuned for more on the jaw-dropping beauty of Glen Brittle. (And also, a post on how we got there…)

The Cuillin
2.       Driving through the Quiraing: One of the best things about travel happens to be meeting new people, and Kat & I sure did that. In our hostel at Portree, we were fortunate enough to meet Anna-Marie and Bas, whose plans to hike around Portree were foiled by bad weather. What luck that was for us, because the four of us ended up renting a car and driving around the island together for the day! Yes, I drove in the UK and didn’t crash/harm anyone/kill a sheep! It was quite thrilling, and one of the very cool, windy roads we went through was in the Quiraing, which is a landscape created by a series of landslides called the Trotternish Landslip, some of which still occur.
The Storr
3.       The Storr: part of the whole landslide-derived landscape, the Storr, which includes the famous Old Man of Storr, has alien-looking rock features that jut into the sky. There are sheep, too. 
Me at the Storr

4. Edinburgh Fringe Festival: Every August for most of the month, artists from all over the world descend on Edinburgh. The Royal Mile is clobbered by tourists, performers and locals just trying to get to their bus, and acts ranging from general street performers (you know, fire eaters, magic, balancing acts, guitar) to music to mime to dance to experimental theatre to whatever the heck one can qualify as “art.” Hundreds—yes, hundreds—of shows take place, many of which are free or very cheap. If you hate crowds and the risk of hit-or-miss performances, avoid Edinburgh at this time, as accommodation prices skyrocket, but if you’re interested in the quirky, thought-provoking or plain old funny, definitely check out the Fringe. (FYI: We stayed at a great hostel, Castle Rock. Highly recommend!)

5. London 2012 Olympics! We heard that tickets to soccer in Glasgow were cheap, sometimes even free, so we figured we’d break up the long bus ride from Skye back to Edinburgh with a stopover in Glasgow to catch some Olympic action. Although we didn’t get to see Team USA play that day (they were over in Newcastle or somesuch), we did get to see France defeat Sweden in a hard fought women’s quarter-final soccer match! Tickets were not as cheap as we had been promised, but when else was I going to go to the Olympics? 

Team USA during the Opening Ceremonies! We watched from a pub in Portree.

Why I loved traveling in Greece (and why you should try it sometime)

02 Thursday Aug 2012

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Port of Nafplio, Greece. See the couple having their wedding photos done? 🙂

By now, I’ve got a little more than a month in Greece under my belt. Now I can say that I’ve traveled it solo and accompanied, and both were majestic. If you didn’t realize that a lot is happening economically in Greece right now, you’ve probably been living under a remote rock somewhere. Their economic crisis and the political turmoil that is part of that has made an impact on tourism in Greece, too, which is a bummer when you think about the fact that last year, 16.5% of Greece’s GDP was based on tourism. So, here are a few things I’d like to share about my time in Greece, in case you’re having doubts about traveling there! 

I ordered an omelet for dinner one night and this is what I got! Whimsical!
The food. If you’re anything like me, you like to eat. A lot. Food is one of my favorite things, and I strongly believe that sharing food is a huge part of sharing in a community’s culture. Greece is no different, and lucky for us travelers, the food here is wonderful! Like seafood? No problem! Pretty much anywhere you go in Greece, the seafood is guaranteed to be fresh and pretty local. Vegetarian? Definitely no problem! Tons of salads and vegetable options grace tavern menus. Need gluten-free? Also not an issue, especially if you eat meat. Can’t really help you vegans out; pita is the shiznit, so you’re missing out. But again, the produce in Greece is incredible, and you won’t find better cherries anywhere. My favorite Greek foods are their traditional yogurt, horiatiki (which is basically what in America we call a “Greek salad:” olives, tomatoes, onions, and a HUGE chunk of feta to top it off), and biftekis gemistas, which are stuffed hamburgers without a bun, essentially. There are dozens of other incredible foods that I love there, but those are some standouts. Oh, and of course don’t forget to try the pita souvlaki! 
The transport. Getting around in Greece is quite easy, despite the fact that they don’t even have the same alphabet! The KTEL bus system goes almost everywhere you could want it to go, and since the national train service has been cut quite a bit, it’s a lot quicker generally to travel on the busses. We did take the train, and that was great, too, although it’s running less and now there are no international trains out of Greece (so don’t try to get on one bound for Turkey; you’ll be waiting for Godot for that one). Sometimes it’s tricky to find schedules on the KTEL website, because each region has its own site. Generally, hotel and hostel folks are very helpful in figuring these things out, though, so I never had a problem, even when I was traveling on my own. For tips on navigating from BusStation A to Bus Station B, check out my post! 
In Athens, at least, the metro is super easy to navigate, thanks to the 2004 Olympics. There’s a direct train from the airport into the center of the city, and you can buy a ticket that’s valid for both bus and metro, in case you need to transfer. Ferry travel is relatively easy to organize, although you might be advised to stick with a Greek travel agent for that. We were able to book our overnight ferry to Santorini no problem, but figuring out where to pick up the tickets caused some confusion. Greece still has jobs for travel agents, so you shouldn’t have a problem finding one in Piraeus or in the cities; they can book your ferry and accommodation, which is helpful because not all the ferry times are online. Overall, though, I found Greece super easy to get around in, even all by my non-Greek-speaking self.
The Acropolis at dusk
The sights. Greece truly has something for everyone. If your dream vacation is lying on a beach with a drink in your hand, go to the islands. You’ll see some of the world’s greatest beaches and most picturesque sunsets. Prefer something more outdoorsy, like hiking? That’s cool, try Olympus or hiking up to the monasteries in Meteora. If history is your cup of tea, then Greece is definitely one of the top places to be. The Acropolis (and essentially everything in Athens), ancient Olympia, Mycenae, Epidaurus, Rhodes, Crete, Santorini…all of these places have notable ruins and interesting histories, and that’s barely scratching the surface. 
These reasons are not the only ones I loved Greece, but they are some big ones. It’s helpful that the Greek people I encountered were, without exception, eager to help me have the best experience possible in their country; whether it was the locals advising Boris and me on where to eat dinner, or a periptero owner directing me to the bus stop, folks weren’t bothered by my lack of language skills, nor did I feel talked down to for being a tourist. Most Greeks speak English (many of them really well), but even if they don’t, a general eagerness to communicate exists. 
A final note about safety in Greece: last year, headlines were rampant in American newspapers featuring the riots in Syntagma Square and the protests happening in Athens. A lot of people were freaked out about this, especially us danger-wary Americans. The general rule of thumb when protests like that happen is to avoid the areas of the city where protests are happening and you’ll be fine. I had friends who were excavating in the middle of the city and had to go around the protest areas daily; they were fine. I had other friends who were working in the Peloponnese when things were going nuts; they were fine (if inconvenienced by transportation strikes). Just like anywhere else, if you avoid an active conflict, you should be fine. What I’m starting to learn is that America is actually a much more dangerous place compared to most European countries.
There’s my endorsement of traveling Greece. What are you waiting for!?

3 Ways to Be a Courteous Hostel-Goer

26 Thursday Jul 2012

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I’ve stayed in my fair share of hostels in the time I’ve traveled, and almost across the board I’ve had great experiences. Rooming in hostels is a great way to meet new people, get tips about the city you’re in from the staff, and (usually) not break the bank. 
But staying in a hostel almost always means sharing space; whether you’re in a 4-bed ensuite or a 16-bed with an exterior bathroom, you’re probably going to be hanging out—and sleeping—with strangers (come on, you know what I mean). Here are 3 things to keep in mind to keep you from being that person the other sleepers complain about to their new friends at their next hostel. 

-Say “hello.” One of the best things about staying in hostels is its social atmosphere. Someone new coming into your room? Are you sitting alone at the hostel bar? Ask others about their trips—where they’re coming from, where they’re headed, what their favorite place has been. Chances are that you’ll be met with enthusiasm and interesting stories. Even better, you might share part of your itinerary with that person, so you can swap tips and recommendations! It’ll be pretty clear whether he or she wants to chat, though, so if you get the cues that they need to some alone time, maybe give it another try later. 
-Do your part to help keep common areas tidy. Some hostels are better staffed than others when it comes to cleaning up. A few places I’ve stayed in have dishwashers for the included breakfast; others have a strict “clean up after yourself” policy. Good hostels usually clean communal bathrooms once a day, but the level of sanitation can vary. Obviously, when you have dozens of people in and out of a tiny bathroom with an even tinier shower every day, or using a communal kitchen to prepare meals, it can be hard to keep things clean. Basically, if you make a mess, clean it up. This is a kindergarten rule: if you shower and water gets everywhere, sometimes there will be a mop or other type of squeegee-esque thingamabob. Use it. If you’re cooking and your sauce spills all over the stove, don’t just shrug and eat your pasta without wiping it up. Or, if you are staying at a hostel with a cleaning staff, inform the front desk so that they can take care of it before it affects others.
If you consider only one of these three suggestions, please let this be it:
 -Respect sleep time. Yes, I get it. It’s a hostel, not some 5-star hotel. But guess what? That doesn’t mean you can leave courtesy at the door. You never know when your dorm-mates are rising early for a morning flight, or perhaps are trying to rest up while battling a cold. Or maybe they just want to sleep. I refuse to accept that I won’t ever get a good night’s rest at a hostel just because it’s a hostel.
So what does that mean? Be mindful of your noise level. If you come in at 1 a.m. and people are sleeping, don’t read that as your opportunity to make it into Guinness for highest decibel level produced by a human. Does that mean no talking at all if you’re trying to communicate with your buddies? No, of course not. You don’t need to learn Morse code to use with a flashlight and sheets just to remind them what time you’re rendezvous-ing in the morning. Whisper instead. If you come into the room loud and drunk, you don’t get a free pass or anything but I won’t envy your morning.
Light. We’re not at the beginning of Genesis here, people. If you walk into a dorm room at night and the lights are out and you can make out a figure on the bed, turning the entire room light on is NOT okay. If you need some visual aid, use your cell phone, or a flashlight. If you have neither, consider propping the door open a bit to let hallway light in so you can grab your toothbrush or whatever, and then consider purchasing a travel flashlight (or download a flashlight app for your phone). Invaluable for situations just like these.
Ultimately, it all comes down to respect. Respect that you’re sharing a space, and think about the golden rule. Would you want to be woken up at 4 a.m. by a bright light and loud voices? Do you want to get somebody else’s hair from the shower drain stuck on your feet? No hostel will be perfect, but the more people think about simply being aware of others, the better everyone’s experience will be.

My Favorite Five: Things to Do in Nafplio, Greece (On a Budget)

20 Friday Jul 2012

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Nafplio from the water on the way to the island fortress

Finding things to do in Nafplio is not complicated, mostly because those things to do are simple and accessible! Way to go, Nafplio! (See, it even makes a sweet rhyme.) My arrival here, which entailed getting from Delphi to Athens to the Peloponnese via bus, metro, on foot, and by zeppelin (kidding), was duly rewarded by Nafplio itself; by the time I had made it from the KTEL station to my little hotel, I was already in love.

That being said, Nafplio is not really a backpacker’s tourist destination. That’s okay, since I’m not really a backpacker I guess, but I am on more of a budget than, say, the yachting French family who might spend a week in Nafplio, too.
So, here are my five favorite things that I did in Nafplio over the week that I was there (Monday-Friday), and they didn’t even break the bank.
 
1. Catch the sunset off the port. I know, I know, I’m becoming a bit obsessed with sunsets. So sue me, they’re pretty, okay!? Plus, they are perfect for photos, since the light here in Greece is A.MAZ.ING. But really, they are also worth watching, especially in a setting like this one. The first night I arrived in Nafplio, I walked down to the port and ambled along the promenade. There are many places to sit, whether you want to watch the sun going to bed from a water-side cafe with a coffee in hand, or just from one of the many benches along the way. 
 
Cost? Free.  (Unless you take the cafe option, in which case, can be 3-6 euro, depending on your drink.)
 
Unedited sunset off the port in Napflio.
2. Go to the beach. A couple beach options exist in Nafplio. If you want sandy, go to Karathona beach, which is accessible by bus and is maybe a fifteen minute bus ride. You can also take a 5-8 euro cab ride there and it’ll take less than 10 minutes. Or so I hear. I never made it there, because I really liked the rocky beach, Aravitia. 
 
Aravitia is accessible on foot a couple different ways. For a less scenic route, head into town basically to the KTEL station, on Sigrou. When you’ve passed that, on the left is a little square with a statue in it; go that way and up, towards the stairs to the Palamidi Fortress. But, instead of working your buns on the stairs, keep going and you’ll hit the beach. There’s a snack bar, and umbrellas if you don’t bring your own. The water is so crystal clear that once in awhile when I was swimming, I’d see a fish and vaguely flail for a second before remembering that they’re not going to try to devour me. 
 
The other way to get to Aravitia is a lot prettier, although depending on where you’re coming from, takes longer. Go to the port, and follow its curve, keeping the cafes, etc. on your left. Just keep going, past the playground, past the other swimming area, and along the walking path. It hugs the coast and the town, and is quite picturesque. You’ll usually see a sailboat or two going along. Keep going, and you’ll run into Aravitia Beach! 
 
Cost? Free!  Note: Be sure to bring SUNBLOCK and a proper towel. Unless you’ve got shade, you won’t find any at the beach except for the paid umbrellas. Also, the rocks do get bloody hot, so spare yourself the discomfort and try to bring a terry cloth towel. (I’ve been using my coverup as a towel, and its just a thin layer of cotton, which did get particularly toasty, but not unbearable.) 
 
3. Climb the 999 steps to see the Palamidi Fortress. Other than being a great workout (again, bring sunblock! And water!), climbing the steps to the fortress affords you a very cool view of the city of Nafplio. As you ascend, the little peninsular shape of the town comes into view, and you can see from yet another angle how incredible Greece’s landscape really is. 
Palamidi!
Legend has it that there are 999 steps. I started counting and got to about 18 when I got distracted and decided counting was a silly idea.
I really enjoyed exploring the fortress, which was built in the 18th century and before it was finished, fell to the Turks, but was later recaptured in 1822 by the Greeks. Not only is it huge, with eight bastions, it also is a historically important part of the city. One of the heroes from the War of Independence, Kolokotronis, supposedly was imprisoned there, and you can see where he was kept. 
 
Plus, the view of the city and the sea is smashing. 
Cost? 4 euro. *
 
4. Go on a day-trip to Mycenae. What is Greece known for if not for its ruins? The austere glory of the Acropolis, the columns of Delphi, and don’t forget all the good stuff in the Peloponnese. If you took any kind of art history in high school (or college, or whenever), Mycenae should ring a bell. It’s where they found the “funerary mask” of Agamemnon, and the famous Lion’s Gate still stands.

If art isn’t your thing, then maybe epic Greek poetry is. If the names Agamemnon, Orestes, Clytemnestera, or Iphegeneia sound familiar, Mycenae is supposedly the place where they hung out.

In any case, the ruins are fun to explore, especially if you have an interest in ancient history. Mycenae’s structures date back to the 16th century BCE, and include grave circles, a cistern, remnants of house layouts, a granary, the lion’s gate, the treasury of Atreus, and, of course, the palace.

 
Me in front of the Treasury of Atreus

Again, be sure to bring a hat and water, as there is minimal shade on the citadel. The KTEL bus from Nafplio to Mycenae (look for Mykenes on the bus) takes you right to the site in just about an hour, and runs 3 or 4 times a day.

Cost? 5.80 euro for round-trip bus ticket + 8 euro for entrance to the site*

 
5. Go (Window) Shopping by the port. Nafplio really is one of those places where you can be happy just to walk around, especially in the evening time, around 7:30 or 8. One day I was here I just read my book in approximately 4 different places, just walking, sitting, reading, eating. Walk along the streets to check out clothing stores, jewelry shops, a leather shoe store where the craftsman works on the shoes right in front of your eyes. Grab the best gelato in Nafplio from Antica Gelateria di Roma (2.50 euro for a small cup of 2 flavors*), check out the only worry-bead museum in the world (3 euro or free for students with an ID*), or just people-watch as you meander through the streets.*Prices are as of July 2012
This post was linked to Pretty Travels Volume 2: Sun, Sea & Sand! Pretty Travels

Geia sas!

06 Friday Jul 2012

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Phoenix–>Washington, DC–>Munich–>Athens=about 24 hours of travel on approximately 4 hours of sleep. But, we made it! 

The last time I was in Athens was last summer, and I can’t say I immediately fell in love with the city. Protests had only recently calmed down, and although I was still looking forward to traveling in Greece this year, I won’t say I wasn’t concerned about the political and economic climate. 
Thessaloniki by night. Photo courtesy of Kairos-Holidays.com
However, our arrival in Athens was smooth; no violence in the streets, no protesters camping out in squares greeted us as we emerged from the metro. We ate dinner at a taverna near the hotel in the neighborhood of Psiri, a hip area where young people hang out to drink, smoke hookah and enjoy the arid Athenian summer air. Three kittens played by our table–a black one and two orange tabbies–and we feasted on our first legitimate Horiatiki salad in a year. Fresh olives, tomatoes, cucumber and onion topped with a thick slab of feta. 
The next morning was passed on a quest to find Boris a watch battery, during which we went through Monastiraki, an area where the Greeks do their shopping. A huge meat market was on our way, and we decided just to walk through to look at the wares. Flanks of every meat-producing mammal humans eat seemed to hang from the stalls, and goats heads peered out at us from icy buckets. Some butchers shouted the details for their meat products, others just greeted us with a friendly, “Kalimera.” (Good morning) All wore white coats smattered with blood. 
After a six-hour train ride north, we made it to Thessaloniki, aka Salonica, the second-largest city in Greece. Our budget hotel is located right on one of the main streets, and is staffed by some of the friendliest hotel-workers I’ve ever encountered. 
We wandered Ladadika and found a little mezedopoleion, a type of restaurant sort of specializing in appetizers, barely a week old. A small feast of traditional Greek salad, oven-roasted potatoes slathered in goat butter and melted gruyere, and spiced sausage & cheese inside perfectly crisp filo rolls. So good and SO CHEAP! We paid less than 15 euro for the entire meal, plus they brought us dessert, bread, and an aperitif called Raki with some sort of tasty bruschetta-type bread with a paste that was really good, too. Sorry I don’t remember the name, I was eating it. 🙂 
Sated by our meal, we walked back to the hotel the long way, admiring the open squares and people relaxing in the bars and restaurants, all with open seating along the plazas. So far, Thessaloniki has made an excellent impression! I hope it continues to please!

Words for Safe Passage

05 Thursday Jul 2012

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Courtesy of Moon Travel

When I was in 6th grade, my seat in science class faced a big poster with a prayer on it written by Sir Francis Drake in 1577 before his departure to the Americas. The font was fancy and old-looking, like an illuminated manuscript. The first letter of the prayer loomed over the rest in that antique book style, and whenever I zoned out, I would read and re-read that prayer hanging on the wall. For years I had the first stanza memorized; its poetic vehemence struck me, even the 11-year-old me.

Later I would find that my parents also liked this prayer, and hung it on our refrigerator among the dozens of school portraits, magnets, postcards from globetrotting family and friends. At a certain point, the printout disappeared, probably in a cleaning frenzy that, once in awhile, would leave the fridge looking more spartan than it had in years.

Now, as I sally forth into this great, big, daunting world, I am moved–just as I was sitting in that sixth grade science class–by the first words.

Disturb us, Lord, when we are too well pleased with ourselves,
When our dreams have come true because we have dreamed too little,
When we arrived safely because we sailed too close to the shore.
What a plea! For whatever power that be to disturb us. I don’t think it matters what beliefs you hold, or whether you hold any at all about the divine. But I think this idea is an important one; we should be moved to act once in awhile, rather than being left alone in our own complacence, or our own ambivalence for happiness to be realized. 
I looked up the prayer recently for my own sake. Here it is in full; I’ve highlighted my favorite parts.

Disturb us, Lord, when we are too well pleased with ourselves,

When our dreams have come true because we have dreamed too little,


When we arrived safely because we sailed too close to the shore. 

Disturb us, Lord, when with the abundance of things we possess

We have lost our thirst for the waters of life;
Having fallen in love with life, we have ceased to dream of eternity
And in our efforts to build a new earth,
We have allowed our vision of the new Heaven to dim.

Disturb us, Lord, to dare more boldly, to venture on wider seas

Where storms will show your mastery;

Where losing sight of land, we shall find the stars.

We ask You to push back the horizons of our hopes;
And to push into the future in strength, courage, hope and love.




Since rediscovering this prayer, I’ve found many others from lots of different religions. Travel has always been a part of life, both ancient and modern, and the historian in me is very interested in how similar they all are throughout time and across culture.



 Anyway, here’s to daring more boldly, venturing on wider seas, and finding stars! 

Independence Day

04 Wednesday Jul 2012

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The 4th of July is a special holiday to me. I’ve written about it before, about our neighborhood block party growing up, the reading of the Declaration, the fireworks that inevitably set fire to Sentinel Peak every year in Tucson (sometimes we learn a bit slowly in AZ). 

I’ve spent the Fourth at home. I’ve spent it abroad. I’ve spent it with family, with friends, with new friends, with strangers. Today, I’ll be spending it en route to Athens, Greece, so I’ll be able to say I’ve celebrated our Independence Day on the ground and in the air. 
This time, too, it means something different. Independence today means independence that I’ve chosen. My big leap, the one that I’ve been preparing for for months, this decision that I made on a warm day in the Tucson spring, it’s actually happening. I’m not just abstractly talking about my flights, or my packing list, or my travel gadgets. I’m concretely talking about my flights (1 down, 2 to go for this leg), my packing list (made it with my Osprey Meridian carry-on), and my travel gadgets (Chico bag that folds into itself! Kindle! Mini flashlight! And all the cool stuff I’ll get to borrow from Boris!). 
My own independence day is today. Time to rip it up like Jimi Hendrix did. 

As Aretha once sang…

28 Thursday Jun 2012

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Where the Russian River meets the Pacific Ocean in Jenner, California, there is a long strip of sandy beach. The coast is punctuated with rocks jutting up out of the surf. At sunset, the light is a certain indescribable golden hue that only beaches seem to have. Something else makes the beach special. Not just the photogenic driftwood or the accumulated clouds at dusk.

Goat’s Rock Beach is home to a seal harbor sanctuary. From March to July, mama seals come to the beach to have their pups and hang out. Curious juveniles swim up to kayaks (including ours today) to pop their heads out and watch before slipping back under the surf. On the river side of the shore, you can see dozens of seals laying out, peacefully soaking up the sun. 
Sorry this photo doesn’t really capture the seals. But they’re there. And they’re awesome.
I could sit for hours and watch the little gray, slippery heads venture out of the waters; it’s like having your very own Nature Channel. Just the other day I was enjoying watching the seals brave the curve in the current to make it to the other side of the beach. 
I considered framing this post as a rant, or as a “3 ways how not to ruin nature” deal. I wanted to rail against decisions I thought other people shouldn’t have made. But I decided against it; I’ll let the negative energy slide. The one thing I want to remind you, dear readers, without sounding too preachy or rude or whatever, is to be respectful of signage in nature preserves. Please, please, please.

 If there are a million signs asking to stay a certain distance away from the wildlife, follow those instructions. They are there for a reason, namely being the safety of the animals, and to ensure that they have a home to return next time they are there. 

Harbor seals do not move easily on land. When they are startled on land, they may abandon their pups to go back into the water until the area is safe again. If an entire group of seals is often disturbed by people, they may not go back to that location. Use common sense. Don’t disturb natural habitats, ESPECIALLY the ones that are all special and preserve-y and stuff. 
Okay, I’m done now with that part. But while I’m on the topic of seals, does anyone else remember that movie, Andre? About the seal that the little girl raises and she turned up later in Napoleon Dynamite? I loved that movie. The soundtrack was epic…

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Photo courtesy of Stargate Cinema
Kayaking was great, though! I forgot what a good arm workout it is. We got to see the water and the beach and our house from another perspective, and then we ate a really big lunch. 
P.S. The weather here is perfect.
P.P.S. Here are wise words from our dear friend, Aretha.