Tag Archives: Things to do

Why I loved traveling in Greece (and why you should try it sometime)

02 Thursday Aug 2012

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Port of Nafplio, Greece. See the couple having their wedding photos done? 🙂

By now, I’ve got a little more than a month in Greece under my belt. Now I can say that I’ve traveled it solo and accompanied, and both were majestic. If you didn’t realize that a lot is happening economically in Greece right now, you’ve probably been living under a remote rock somewhere. Their economic crisis and the political turmoil that is part of that has made an impact on tourism in Greece, too, which is a bummer when you think about the fact that last year, 16.5% of Greece’s GDP was based on tourism. So, here are a few things I’d like to share about my time in Greece, in case you’re having doubts about traveling there! 

I ordered an omelet for dinner one night and this is what I got! Whimsical!
The food. If you’re anything like me, you like to eat. A lot. Food is one of my favorite things, and I strongly believe that sharing food is a huge part of sharing in a community’s culture. Greece is no different, and lucky for us travelers, the food here is wonderful! Like seafood? No problem! Pretty much anywhere you go in Greece, the seafood is guaranteed to be fresh and pretty local. Vegetarian? Definitely no problem! Tons of salads and vegetable options grace tavern menus. Need gluten-free? Also not an issue, especially if you eat meat. Can’t really help you vegans out; pita is the shiznit, so you’re missing out. But again, the produce in Greece is incredible, and you won’t find better cherries anywhere. My favorite Greek foods are their traditional yogurt, horiatiki (which is basically what in America we call a “Greek salad:” olives, tomatoes, onions, and a HUGE chunk of feta to top it off), and biftekis gemistas, which are stuffed hamburgers without a bun, essentially. There are dozens of other incredible foods that I love there, but those are some standouts. Oh, and of course don’t forget to try the pita souvlaki! 
The transport. Getting around in Greece is quite easy, despite the fact that they don’t even have the same alphabet! The KTEL bus system goes almost everywhere you could want it to go, and since the national train service has been cut quite a bit, it’s a lot quicker generally to travel on the busses. We did take the train, and that was great, too, although it’s running less and now there are no international trains out of Greece (so don’t try to get on one bound for Turkey; you’ll be waiting for Godot for that one). Sometimes it’s tricky to find schedules on the KTEL website, because each region has its own site. Generally, hotel and hostel folks are very helpful in figuring these things out, though, so I never had a problem, even when I was traveling on my own. For tips on navigating from BusStation A to Bus Station B, check out my post! 
In Athens, at least, the metro is super easy to navigate, thanks to the 2004 Olympics. There’s a direct train from the airport into the center of the city, and you can buy a ticket that’s valid for both bus and metro, in case you need to transfer. Ferry travel is relatively easy to organize, although you might be advised to stick with a Greek travel agent for that. We were able to book our overnight ferry to Santorini no problem, but figuring out where to pick up the tickets caused some confusion. Greece still has jobs for travel agents, so you shouldn’t have a problem finding one in Piraeus or in the cities; they can book your ferry and accommodation, which is helpful because not all the ferry times are online. Overall, though, I found Greece super easy to get around in, even all by my non-Greek-speaking self.
The Acropolis at dusk
The sights. Greece truly has something for everyone. If your dream vacation is lying on a beach with a drink in your hand, go to the islands. You’ll see some of the world’s greatest beaches and most picturesque sunsets. Prefer something more outdoorsy, like hiking? That’s cool, try Olympus or hiking up to the monasteries in Meteora. If history is your cup of tea, then Greece is definitely one of the top places to be. The Acropolis (and essentially everything in Athens), ancient Olympia, Mycenae, Epidaurus, Rhodes, Crete, Santorini…all of these places have notable ruins and interesting histories, and that’s barely scratching the surface. 
These reasons are not the only ones I loved Greece, but they are some big ones. It’s helpful that the Greek people I encountered were, without exception, eager to help me have the best experience possible in their country; whether it was the locals advising Boris and me on where to eat dinner, or a periptero owner directing me to the bus stop, folks weren’t bothered by my lack of language skills, nor did I feel talked down to for being a tourist. Most Greeks speak English (many of them really well), but even if they don’t, a general eagerness to communicate exists. 
A final note about safety in Greece: last year, headlines were rampant in American newspapers featuring the riots in Syntagma Square and the protests happening in Athens. A lot of people were freaked out about this, especially us danger-wary Americans. The general rule of thumb when protests like that happen is to avoid the areas of the city where protests are happening and you’ll be fine. I had friends who were excavating in the middle of the city and had to go around the protest areas daily; they were fine. I had other friends who were working in the Peloponnese when things were going nuts; they were fine (if inconvenienced by transportation strikes). Just like anywhere else, if you avoid an active conflict, you should be fine. What I’m starting to learn is that America is actually a much more dangerous place compared to most European countries.
There’s my endorsement of traveling Greece. What are you waiting for!?

My Favorite Five: Things to Do in Nafplio, Greece (On a Budget)

20 Friday Jul 2012

Posted by in Destinations, Favorite 5, Travel Musings

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Nafplio from the water on the way to the island fortress

Finding things to do in Nafplio is not complicated, mostly because those things to do are simple and accessible! Way to go, Nafplio! (See, it even makes a sweet rhyme.) My arrival here, which entailed getting from Delphi to Athens to the Peloponnese via bus, metro, on foot, and by zeppelin (kidding), was duly rewarded by Nafplio itself; by the time I had made it from the KTEL station to my little hotel, I was already in love.

That being said, Nafplio is not really a backpacker’s tourist destination. That’s okay, since I’m not really a backpacker I guess, but I am on more of a budget than, say, the yachting French family who might spend a week in Nafplio, too.
So, here are my five favorite things that I did in Nafplio over the week that I was there (Monday-Friday), and they didn’t even break the bank.
 
1. Catch the sunset off the port. I know, I know, I’m becoming a bit obsessed with sunsets. So sue me, they’re pretty, okay!? Plus, they are perfect for photos, since the light here in Greece is A.MAZ.ING. But really, they are also worth watching, especially in a setting like this one. The first night I arrived in Nafplio, I walked down to the port and ambled along the promenade. There are many places to sit, whether you want to watch the sun going to bed from a water-side cafe with a coffee in hand, or just from one of the many benches along the way. 
 
Cost? Free.  (Unless you take the cafe option, in which case, can be 3-6 euro, depending on your drink.)
 
Unedited sunset off the port in Napflio.
2. Go to the beach. A couple beach options exist in Nafplio. If you want sandy, go to Karathona beach, which is accessible by bus and is maybe a fifteen minute bus ride. You can also take a 5-8 euro cab ride there and it’ll take less than 10 minutes. Or so I hear. I never made it there, because I really liked the rocky beach, Aravitia. 
 
Aravitia is accessible on foot a couple different ways. For a less scenic route, head into town basically to the KTEL station, on Sigrou. When you’ve passed that, on the left is a little square with a statue in it; go that way and up, towards the stairs to the Palamidi Fortress. But, instead of working your buns on the stairs, keep going and you’ll hit the beach. There’s a snack bar, and umbrellas if you don’t bring your own. The water is so crystal clear that once in awhile when I was swimming, I’d see a fish and vaguely flail for a second before remembering that they’re not going to try to devour me. 
 
The other way to get to Aravitia is a lot prettier, although depending on where you’re coming from, takes longer. Go to the port, and follow its curve, keeping the cafes, etc. on your left. Just keep going, past the playground, past the other swimming area, and along the walking path. It hugs the coast and the town, and is quite picturesque. You’ll usually see a sailboat or two going along. Keep going, and you’ll run into Aravitia Beach! 
 
Cost? Free!  Note: Be sure to bring SUNBLOCK and a proper towel. Unless you’ve got shade, you won’t find any at the beach except for the paid umbrellas. Also, the rocks do get bloody hot, so spare yourself the discomfort and try to bring a terry cloth towel. (I’ve been using my coverup as a towel, and its just a thin layer of cotton, which did get particularly toasty, but not unbearable.) 
 
3. Climb the 999 steps to see the Palamidi Fortress. Other than being a great workout (again, bring sunblock! And water!), climbing the steps to the fortress affords you a very cool view of the city of Nafplio. As you ascend, the little peninsular shape of the town comes into view, and you can see from yet another angle how incredible Greece’s landscape really is. 
Palamidi!
Legend has it that there are 999 steps. I started counting and got to about 18 when I got distracted and decided counting was a silly idea.
I really enjoyed exploring the fortress, which was built in the 18th century and before it was finished, fell to the Turks, but was later recaptured in 1822 by the Greeks. Not only is it huge, with eight bastions, it also is a historically important part of the city. One of the heroes from the War of Independence, Kolokotronis, supposedly was imprisoned there, and you can see where he was kept. 
 
Plus, the view of the city and the sea is smashing. 
Cost? 4 euro. *
 
4. Go on a day-trip to Mycenae. What is Greece known for if not for its ruins? The austere glory of the Acropolis, the columns of Delphi, and don’t forget all the good stuff in the Peloponnese. If you took any kind of art history in high school (or college, or whenever), Mycenae should ring a bell. It’s where they found the “funerary mask” of Agamemnon, and the famous Lion’s Gate still stands.

If art isn’t your thing, then maybe epic Greek poetry is. If the names Agamemnon, Orestes, Clytemnestera, or Iphegeneia sound familiar, Mycenae is supposedly the place where they hung out.

In any case, the ruins are fun to explore, especially if you have an interest in ancient history. Mycenae’s structures date back to the 16th century BCE, and include grave circles, a cistern, remnants of house layouts, a granary, the lion’s gate, the treasury of Atreus, and, of course, the palace.

 
Me in front of the Treasury of Atreus

Again, be sure to bring a hat and water, as there is minimal shade on the citadel. The KTEL bus from Nafplio to Mycenae (look for Mykenes on the bus) takes you right to the site in just about an hour, and runs 3 or 4 times a day.

Cost? 5.80 euro for round-trip bus ticket + 8 euro for entrance to the site*

 
5. Go (Window) Shopping by the port. Nafplio really is one of those places where you can be happy just to walk around, especially in the evening time, around 7:30 or 8. One day I was here I just read my book in approximately 4 different places, just walking, sitting, reading, eating. Walk along the streets to check out clothing stores, jewelry shops, a leather shoe store where the craftsman works on the shoes right in front of your eyes. Grab the best gelato in Nafplio from Antica Gelateria di Roma (2.50 euro for a small cup of 2 flavors*), check out the only worry-bead museum in the world (3 euro or free for students with an ID*), or just people-watch as you meander through the streets.*Prices are as of July 2012
This post was linked to Pretty Travels Volume 2: Sun, Sea & Sand! Pretty Travels

The Ruins & Museum of Delphi (Mostly in Photos)

17 Tuesday Jul 2012

Posted by in Destinations, Photo of My Day

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Delphi at dusk

Delphi is one of the most famous places for ancient Greece, and was considered the “navel of the earth.” Its importance was derived from the great temple to Apollo, where the female Oracle would spout gibberish induced by inhaling vapors rising from the earth, which was then interpreted by priests for those seeking information. Famous folks like Lysander, Philip II of Macedon, Cicero, and the emperor Nero consulted the Oracle, as well as many others. Her prophecies–proof of her communion with Apollo–were often vague. Think “horoscope” but for bigger questions.

Sculptural rendering of Prometheus


After a very warm night (note to self: ALWAYS make sure Greek hotel rooms have AC before booking in summer), I rose at 6:15 to visit the ruins. The ruins of Delphi open at 7:30 a.m. and it’s worth buying the 9 euro combination ticket to the ruins and the museum, as the museum really does have a lot of spiffy stuff.

 It’s also worth going early, especially if you’re there in the summer. Trust me. I’m from Arizona. Our summer temps often reach 115 F (46 C), and this summer in the Mediterranean it is FRIGGIN’ HOT. No joke. By the time I left the ruins around 8:45, I was really starting to sweat. Do yourself a favor, bring a big bottle of water, and go to the ruins early. If you have no interest in the museum, you can also visit the ruins late–they close at 6:30 or so on weekdays. The museum closes at 3 p.m. daily.

Path to the ruins

 Because I had arrived so early, I was the first one to the site and was shortly followed by a young couple from Belarus. For the first thirty minutes or so, it was just us and the site caretakers. One thing to keep in mind: the site does have markers and explanations, but not for everything. If you’re really interested in the explanations behind the ruins, be sure to grab a guide book or hire a tour guide for the full rundown of Delphi!

Mosaic

Can you tell I’m a bit tired? 😉

On this wall are inscribed prayers and offerings to Apollo

According to myth, Zeus wanted to find out where the center of the world was. His very scientific process was to loose two eagles and see where they met and drop a stone to mark its place. That place was Delphi. The stone, the omphalos, supposedly looked conical but had not been touched by man. The omphalos was important for the Pythia’s process of prophesying. It would be covered with a net and had decorations on it. This one is a replica, and many replicas had been made throughout the centuries. 

Nice wall.

The treasury of Athens, which was dedicated by the people of Athens.

This polygonal wall was pretty impressively situated, seeing as the stones fit together very well! A remarkable example of ancient building.

View of the site from halfway up

Behind me is the Temple of Apollo!

The Temple of Apollo!

artsy shot through the ruins

Stadium where the Pythian Games were held.

 Other than being home to the oracle, Delphi was also home to the running of the Pythian Games, also known as the Delphic Games. These games were one of the four panhellenic games of Ancient Greece, and were held every four years. (Sound familiar? Well, the Panhellenic Games were the predecessors to the Olympic Games!) Events that took place at these games included chariot racing, wrestling, running,  javelin throwing, and more. The Delphic Games differed because they included artistic events sacred to Apollo: dance, drama, recitation, singing, and music!

Some shots from the museum:

These twin kouroi are some of the best–and first–examples of large-scale sculpture from the 6th century BCE. Memories of high school AP Art History came rushing back to me as I saw these dudes!

Antinoos, who had been the companion of the Emperor Hadrian and had died tragically in the Nile and was later deified by the emperor. He was worshiped as a cult figure, mostly outside of Rome.

Currently there is an exhibit touring the world called Myrtis: Face to Face With the Past. Basically, in the 1990’s, excavations unearthed remains from those in Athens who died from typhoid fever. One skull was particularly well preserved, so a professor from the University of Athens decided to reconstruct her face. The goal in touring this exhibit is, in part, to remind the world–especially the UN–of its goal to end poverty by 2015. “Myrtis,” as she is called, had died in the 5th century from the illness that killed about a third of Athens, the treatment for which at the time was unknown. Today, though, the World Health Organization estimates that 9 million children die a year from preventable and treatable diseases. 

This is the closest rendering to what young Myrtis would have looked like at her death. Scientists took into consideration age, historical diet and other factors to correctly estimate the amount of muscle to add to her facial structure. Coloring was based on her assumed heritage.

I enjoyed my early morning trip to the site, and the museum was curated very well. Obviously there were many other artifacts other than the ones posted, but these were what caught my eye the most. I also really did enjoy the Myrtis exhibit, as it explained not only how they recreated her, but also some essentials about archaeology that are accessible to the general public, including kids. Knowledge is power, people!

Ever been to Delphi? Do you have any tips to share? 

My Favorite Five: Things to Do in Athens, Take 2

16 Monday Jul 2012

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See the bitty Acropolis?
Know how, when growing up, you insist you don’t like cabbage because you tried it as a kid and really didn’t like it much? Or maybe its taste wasn’t quite what you expected, so you remained cynical that it would improve upon further tastes? And all the grownups around you insisted it was this thing called an “acquired taste”?  But then later you discovered that suddenly your taste buds had changed tremendously and it wasn’t the worst thing in the world? In fact, it was pretty good? For me, that was Athens (and fizzy water. Currently experimenting with shrimp). 

My first trip to Athens was overshadowed in part by late arrivals, slightly sub-par lodging, an underwhelming Acropolis on a scorching day, as well as a stressful goodbye to my boyfriend, which included me crying into my Greek salad alone in a taverna and the old man running the place getting me a to-go box from across the street because I had ordered too much  because I was used to ordering for two, rather than one. (Yes, I admit it, I cry in public sometimes. Particularly on planes and, apparently, at Greek restaurants. I conveniently left that out of last year’s post.) 
Well, this time around, Boris was determined to show me the Athens he loved. We had 2 nights and a day-and-a-half to change my mediocre experience of Greece’s capital to a much better one.
 Mission: accomplished! Here’s how!
We drank coffee, Greek-style. This meant sitting in a café, preferably outside with tables on the sidewalk or a patio, for 2 hours. 
We explored areas of the city NOT on a tourist’s checklist. Where Boris had studied was in a much less touristed area of the city, so we headed there for an afternoon walk. Just getting away from the furor of Monastiraki, with all its shopping, and away from the Acropolis, with all the sales pitches and high taverna prices, was a nice breath of fresh air. We didn’t go in, but there are public gardens where you can walk, too. 
We watched the sunset from the highest point in Athens. If you’re in Athens, I highly recommend going Nike on your itinerary’s ass and JUST DO IT. Lycabettus Hill is a nice (but steep) walk up from the Kolonaki district of Athens; if you’re feeling worn out, there’s a funicular; if you’re feeling swanky, there’s a beautiful restaurant on the top, too. From there, you can see all of Athens, including the Acropolis, the sea, the domino-like sprawl of the city, itty-bitty people coming out on their balconies to watch the sunset, too. Two Greek soldiers also came to take the flag down, which was a nice ritual to watch.
Athens is so deserty! It’s like home!
I guess the panorama setting on my camera works…
Hi!
I wish I had the camera skills to take better sunset photos slash how to use a real camera.
Lowering the flag
Folding the flag

We got local advice on where to eat. Boris wanted to go to dinner in the area of Pankrati, and on our way along Agras we asked directions from two folks taking advantage of their porch. The woman vehemently recommended Επ’ Αυλη, at the corner of Agras and Arximedous Streets. She even was specific about telling us to tell this one specific waiter who had sent us. So we did. And we were NOT disappointed. I’m pretty sure it was the best meal I’ve had in Greece ever, from start to finish. The service was excellent, as was the atmosphere: an upstairs terrace with twinkle lights and a varied clientele. Stuffed mushrooms, meatballs, lentil salad and horta (steamed chicory salad) were our choices, and without asking we were also brought chocolate cake for dessert. A perfect meal.
We exercised. This sounds weird, probably, but it felt good to play a couple hours of volleyball with some friends in front of the stadium in Pankrati where the first modern Olympics were held. Although still very hot at 6:00 p.m. we managed to have a blast and get a good workout in, which is always good when you’ve been sitting on busses or riding ferries or being generally immobile as part of travel. (That day, we hadn’t been particularly immobile, but whatever, it still felt great!)
All of these sights and tastes and sounds completely changed my view of the city. No longer was it just a place to catch a ferry or fly into, nor was it a place just to see the ancient sites and get sunburned on the Acropolis. Plus, I got to see it all with Boris. His excitement at taking me to these places where he had such fond memories was just as important as were the places themselves.
Top of the little church

On the Rocks: Meteora

15 Sunday Jul 2012

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Our penultimate stop on our route was Kastraki, at the foot of Meteora, a place where geology and time have crafted a landscape both beautiful and alien. “Meteora” means “suspended in air,” and it’s no wonder why it kept this name. Scientists have only theorized as to how these gargantuan rocks formed to reach almost 400 meters high, but the main idea is that about 60 million years ago, a combination of earthquakes and weathering made them what they are today. Atop these outcroppings are Greek Orthodox monasteries that still house monks. 
 

We spent a lot of time trying to avoid the heat—it was about 105 F all the days we were there, and although we’re used to the high temperatures in AZ, we felt the effects of the sun. Normally, we would have hiked to the monasteries, which is doable and much less intimidating than what we had just done a couple days prior on Olympus (although we both were still sore from that happy little jaunt, as well). 
One day we did manage to catch a bus up to the monasteries. Snaking up the mountain on the bus, the view shifted and our perspectives morphed. What had once been little toy houses perched on the rock crag transformed into life-size buildings, and we disembarked at the Holy Monastery of Grand Meteoron.
This particular monastery is the biggest of the six, and was established in 1340. Among things to see at the monastery, other than the requisite Grecian kitty, are museums both about the religion and their documents, artwork, and Greek history, as well as the old kitchen, workshops and the ossuary, where all the bones of deceased monks remain today.
More than anything, though, are the incredible views, both from the monasteries and below. Other than seeing the monasteries on the rocks, my favorite thing to do was watch the sunset from the road. Note to self: watch more sunsets. 

A big rock

Sunset from our favorite spot. There were benches facing the exact right point, and an old man always came to watch the sun go down, too.

On the road up to the biggest monastery. You can sort of see on the right where another one rests.

More rocks!

Thar she blows!

We had to cover up! Ladies are not even allowed to wear pants to cover their legs, they must wear skirts.

Yay for sacred spaces!

Hiking on Mount Olympus

10 Tuesday Jul 2012

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The entry to the park!

When Boris & I started planning our trip in Greece, we had this great idea: why not hike Mt. Olympus!? Yes! I thought, totally sure this would be excellent. After doing minimal research and reading a few Lonely Planet forums, I discovered that Mt. Olympus is a relatively doable hike because it’s not a technical climb. The very top summit, which is where far fewer travelers reach, is a Class 4 scramble, which basically just means you’ll use your hands to help you climb but you don’t really need climbing tools (when there’s not snow, at least).


I continued my research, and found a few personal accounts on blogs and the like. These brave souls had summited and lived to tell the tale, all of whom seemed to endorse the experience as being a strenuous but fun hike up a mountain. What I neglected to realize was the reality of where they started their trip.

You see, there are a number of ways to arrive at the top of Mt. Olympus. Seemingly the most popular is to start at the trailhead in Prionia and hike the 2.5-3 hours to Refuge A, spend the night there in the mountain, and summit the following day. Cool, right? So, we made reservations for a hotel in Litochoro, the town at the foot of Mt. Olympus, for one night, with the intention of hiking to Refuge A from there and summiting the next day.

The catch: Prionia is halfway up the mountain. This was a detail I kind of neglected, forgot about, whatever. I was just so excited that we were hiking Mt. Olympus! As a student (and teacher) of the classics, and a lifelong lover of Greek mythology, the idea of hanging out where Zeus supposedly lived was an exciting one.

Fast forward to Sunday, when we arrived in Litochoro. After a long conversation with our extremely helpful hotel manager, we garnered the following information:
1.       It was going to be about 100 on the day we decided to hike.
2.       Prionia is a four to five hour hike from Litochoro.
3.       From Prionia to Refuge A, it’s about another 2.5-3 hours (Keep in mind that this would have been after very strenuous uphill climbing for five hours).

Truth be told, I was concerned after this discussion. If we were willing to taxi up to Prionia, it would have been no problem, but summiting from half-way up the mountain? We wanted to do the whole shebang.

So, we adapted, as travel tends to require. We discovered that our (incredible) hotel had availability for the following night, and decided we would take the trek from Litochoro—the path started just up the street from our hotel—to wherever we could get; Prionia was a goal, or a monastery right below it. We were warned about the heat, and had to accept the realistic parameters of the climb to be safe.

Since we had less of a concrete goal, we got a late start; breakfast at 8, finally made it to the trail head with enough water and some snacks around 9:45. The first hour was BRUTAL. Honestly, I’m not a huge hiker. I like to hike. I go on hikes once every couple months, probably. I’m in pretty good shape. But never in my life have I strapped a pack on my back and made it up huge mountains or bushwhacked through the wilderness. I leave that to my more daring and outdoorsy friends, of which I have many. But that was why Olympus was appealing to me, in part: I could do it.

 In that first hour, though, where the elevation rises so rapidly, and all you’re seeing is stairs and switchbacks and feeling your heart racing and the mid-morning heat is rising, you can get pretty discouraged. And so we were after the first hour. Our pace was slow, mostly because I was keeping it that way. We had been told that water from the river was potable, so we only brought a couple big liters of water and had already made it through one with no clue as to when the river would cross with the path. Luckily, we ran into some Greek trailrunners, who reassured us that we were only about 20 minutes away from the first river connection.
One of the first big views
Sweet rocks
Another pretty stunning view

The water was completely rejuvenating. Crystal clear and icy, it ran along the trail for a while and we took a little dip. Refreshed, with full bottles of water, we continued on our way.
The waters of Olympus
See how clear it is! Potable, clear mountain spring water.


Obviously I was a little skeptical about the potable part, despite numerous locals all telling us it was the exact water we drank from the tap in the town. I’m looking into the bottle here to make sure I can’t see any germs (as if I’d be able to, anyway!)

Due to the heat, we tried to take things slow. At first I had been really upset when we decided it would probably be safer and more comfortable not to summit, but my boyfriend was right: it felt a lot different once I was on the mountain. The views were spectacular. Luscious trees filling up the canyon opened onto Litochoro on one side, on the other were the peaks of Olympus, daring us to conquer them.
I’d love to know what species of tree this is. We saw a number of fallen red ones exactly like this. At first we thought it was spray-painted, that was how red it was!
History chronicled in the names of the hikers.
Wildlife! There were SO many butterflies all over the place!

More wildlife! This gecko surprised us with its a) presence and b) vibrant colors!
After about 5 hours of hiking, including breaks, we made it up to a monastery that had been destroyed in World War II, completely bombed by the Germans in 1943. Now it is being rebuilt, slowly but surely. The outer buildings are still ruins, ruined enough that someone who hadn’t read the signage would assume it had just been left to rot for some reason or another. But once you enter the inner courtyard, you will find something else.
A small structure where holy water runs, about a 30 minute walk from the monastery.
We found a number of other tourists who had driven up from Litochoro or down from Prionia (only about another hour on foot), workmen laboring over the renovations, and a quiet, young monk clad all in black who offered us the best Turkish delight I’ve ever tasted. He brought out the bowl of sweets and offered it to everyone sitting there before asking us where we were from. The family sitting by us, what looked to be a grandmother, perhaps two adult daughters, a husband, a grand-daughter, also shared their food with us. Our stash of raisins and walnuts essentially depleted, we accepted their generous offerings of fresh cucumber, apricots and bread without much protest and with many thanks.
The inner part of the monastery of Agios Dyonisios. To the right was where we were welcomed and fed.

Funny shot of the day: the sign requests for people to enter properly dressed, as the area is sacred. Notice the half-naked man on the left entering said sacred space. 
As we rested for those thirty minutes, we considered our strength, and the circumstances of our ascent. Had we needed to continue on to Prionia, rest there, and then hike another few hours to Refuge A, we could have. It would have been difficult, we would have arrived late, but we could have done it, and summited the following day. Knowing that makes me feel a little bit better, I suppose: that we could have. We will someday, maybe after training a bit more and being more organized. We’d need to leave much earlier and pack better. And we probably wouldn’t want to hike it in July—with temperatures reaching 100 degrees, and the tree line disappearing as one reaches the summit, any hiker would face the dangers of heat exhaustion or heat stroke, neither of which is safe. May and September are the recommended months for such a climb.

Our return to Litochoro took about three hours, and ultimately we hiked about 10 miles up and down from Litochoro to the monastery of Agios Dionysios. By the end, we were both beat; steep uphill and downhill walking is tough on a lot of different muscles and joints, and as we reached the entry to the park, we were both glad we had finished. We rewarded our hard efforts with a celebratory dinner and a relaxing evening in.
We ate dinner at like 7 p.m. which is very early for Greeks, so we were two of five people eating.

My Favorite Five:Things to Do in Thessaloniki

08 Sunday Jul 2012

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My travels in Greece last summer opened my eyes to a level of beauty I thought only existed in Photoshopped postcards. Nay, Greece had cried to me as I sat and watched the sun set from the rocks off Hydra, I’m beautiful. For reals. And so far, it really has proven to be true.

Sure, Greece has its issues, perhaps now more than ever. But politics and economy aside, there’s a reason why this country was the birthplace of much philosophy, or Western art, and of all the things that so many other civilizations appropriated or were influenced by. Part of that is its inherent beauty and the vitality of its people.

Thessaloniki, the capital of Greek’s region of Central Macedonia, is, at its heart, a diverse city. Historically speaking, Thessaloniki–aka Salonica–was home to large populations of Jews, Turks, Bulgarians, as well as native Greeks. Today, it’s considered the cultural capital of Greece.

Having never explored northern Greece, the six-and-a-half hour train ride up from Athens was a pleasant journey; the scenery changed from arid to green in less than an hour, and by the time we arrived in the early evening, the city was hot but tempered by the breeze at the port.

We only spent a couple days in Salonica, but they were great days. Here are my favorite five things we saw and did there:

1-3: Thessaloniki On the Go Bus Tour: A bus tour constitutes three out of five? Really? Yes, really. Our hotel (which, by the way, was a FANTASTIC family-run place, I highly recommend you check out Hotel Atlantis if you’re ever traveling in Salonica, very helpful staff and comfortable accommodations for excellent prices) gave us this tip to try out the Thessaloniki On the Go Bus Tour. It’s just a regular hop on/hop off sort of deal, but it only cost 2 euro. The comparable one that met right next to it had the cheapest price of 9 euro. 

 We got to see the major parts of the city, and while in transit enjoy the lovely air-conditioned atmosphere of the bus, which was welcome considering how hot Greece can be. Taking this #50 bus, we hopped off in the neighborhood of Ano Poli, the old town and a part of Thessaloniki that was not destroyed during the city’s great fire in 1917. Vlatodon Monastery (1) was a peaceful place to see the city from afar, and still functions as a Byzantine monastery, so you can go to a service if you’d like. 
Just through the first arch into the old town is the Heptapyrgion (2), which was a fortress built in the Byzantine era. This would probably be a good place to watch the sun set over the city, but a wedding party was there getting photographed so we didn’t stay long. Here’s the view! 
Me at the fortress overlooking the city. Not a bad view, eh?

I like taking pictures of grapes. 

The cemetery at the monastery.

View from the monastery overlooking Salonica

A back street in Ano Poli
Travel secret: To get off the beaten path in practically any city, buy some snacks (fruit is our recommendation), find a residential area and a square or park, and people-watch while devouring your goodies (3). This is what we did in Ano Poli; we explored the neighborhood, which got us away from the generally touristed areas of the city. We found a little grocery store and bought some fruit, which is absolutely perfect in Greece, and watched families finishing their coffees in the plaza by our bus stop. A little slice of what life is really like for Salonicans. 

4. Dining in Ladadika: The area by the city center is broken into a number of districts. Many trendy tavernas and clubs are located in Ladadika, and we found a brand-new restaurant, Basilikos, that we loved enough to eat at twice. Nightlife in Thessaloniki thrives, and Ladadika seems to be where everyone starts their night, with dinner or a few drinks, and then maybe heads out to the clubs.

5. Down by the port: Waterfronts are generally a safe bet for things to see and do in a city, and Thessaloniki is no exception. Sunset by the water is not a sight to be missed, and there is plenty of seating available in public areas. If you want to dine or drink in style, there are also a few nice places right on the water, which affords a choice view of the city or of the Aegean Sea. For historical and cultural information on Thessaloniki, as well as a cool view, check out the White Tower. The audio guide is included in the price, and although it wasn’t necessarily my absolute favorite activity we did, it was the closest we got to a museum, so I learned a bit about the town by going.

From the White Tower

Sunset at the port

Street musicians in Aristotelous Square

Ever been to Thessaloniki? What was your favorite part?

Geia sas!

06 Friday Jul 2012

Posted by in Travel Musings

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Phoenix–>Washington, DC–>Munich–>Athens=about 24 hours of travel on approximately 4 hours of sleep. But, we made it! 

The last time I was in Athens was last summer, and I can’t say I immediately fell in love with the city. Protests had only recently calmed down, and although I was still looking forward to traveling in Greece this year, I won’t say I wasn’t concerned about the political and economic climate. 
Thessaloniki by night. Photo courtesy of Kairos-Holidays.com
However, our arrival in Athens was smooth; no violence in the streets, no protesters camping out in squares greeted us as we emerged from the metro. We ate dinner at a taverna near the hotel in the neighborhood of Psiri, a hip area where young people hang out to drink, smoke hookah and enjoy the arid Athenian summer air. Three kittens played by our table–a black one and two orange tabbies–and we feasted on our first legitimate Horiatiki salad in a year. Fresh olives, tomatoes, cucumber and onion topped with a thick slab of feta. 
The next morning was passed on a quest to find Boris a watch battery, during which we went through Monastiraki, an area where the Greeks do their shopping. A huge meat market was on our way, and we decided just to walk through to look at the wares. Flanks of every meat-producing mammal humans eat seemed to hang from the stalls, and goats heads peered out at us from icy buckets. Some butchers shouted the details for their meat products, others just greeted us with a friendly, “Kalimera.” (Good morning) All wore white coats smattered with blood. 
After a six-hour train ride north, we made it to Thessaloniki, aka Salonica, the second-largest city in Greece. Our budget hotel is located right on one of the main streets, and is staffed by some of the friendliest hotel-workers I’ve ever encountered. 
We wandered Ladadika and found a little mezedopoleion, a type of restaurant sort of specializing in appetizers, barely a week old. A small feast of traditional Greek salad, oven-roasted potatoes slathered in goat butter and melted gruyere, and spiced sausage & cheese inside perfectly crisp filo rolls. So good and SO CHEAP! We paid less than 15 euro for the entire meal, plus they brought us dessert, bread, and an aperitif called Raki with some sort of tasty bruschetta-type bread with a paste that was really good, too. Sorry I don’t remember the name, I was eating it. 🙂 
Sated by our meal, we walked back to the hotel the long way, admiring the open squares and people relaxing in the bars and restaurants, all with open seating along the plazas. So far, Thessaloniki has made an excellent impression! I hope it continues to please!

My Favorite Five: Places to Eat in Sonoma County, CA

03 Tuesday Jul 2012

Posted by in Bumbling Bites, Destinations, Favorite 5

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Northern California is a great place for foodies. Wine country at your fingertips generally means great food to go along with it, and eat well we did! Here are a few places where we got some sweet eats. Check them out if you’re in the area!
Big Bottom Market,Guerneville, CA
This little market has been written up as an up-and-coming eaterie in Food & Wine, and it’s no surprise why. Head in to find a variety of creative and well-crafted sandwiches, homemade biscuits with honey, a great drink section and more! Plus, they’ll pair your sandwich with a wine they carry. Don’t forget to check out their specials, which feature locals! (I had the Ziggy last week, which featured a wine-marinated pulled pork that was out of this world.) How’s that for community building?

Howard Station Café, Occidental, CA
Good advice from Miss Piggy on the wall of Howard Station Cafe! 
Howard Station had been recommended to my mom, and I’m glad it was. We ate there one day for breakfast, and then went all the way back to Occidental for round 2 the very next morning! The laid-back atmosphere and friendly service couple well with the diet-friendly menu: looking for vegan? No problem! Gluten an issue? Fuggedaboutit! Known for their eggs benedict, they’ll serve it up not just traditionally (which they’ll still do), but the cooks at Howard’s get creative. When we were there, they served an Irish eggs benedict, with corned beef, which got great reviews at our table. The waffles are, in a word, perfect: light, fluffy, with a big dollop of homemade whipped cream and fresh fruit. They can be gluten-free, too, and you’d never know the difference!
Best gluten-free waffles!
Campo Fina,Healdsburg, CA
We discovered this new venture on a quest to eat at its big sister restaurant, Scopa. Campo Fina, just around the corner, serves family style Italian antipasti and small dishes, as well as some darn good desserts. Play bocce in the back while you wait for your food, or just enjoy some of the locally grown wines! Keep in mind that it is on the pricier side—the small dishes are delectable, but they don’t go very far, so be prepared to order a lot of them to feed a hungry party. It would be a perfect date place!
Wildflour Bakery, Freestone,CA
Along the highway, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, is a beautiful garden next to a bakery whose name plays with words and whimsy alike. Wildflour Bakery serves up hot bread of many flavors, and the garden that flanks it is full of flower and vegetables. Don’t forget to look for the cool elephant mural when you pay!

Wildflour gardens

Wildflour gardens

In the Wildflour gardens

Elephant mural in the bakery
There’s no place like Home.
A home-cooked meal is often the best way to cure homesickness, to learn a family recipe from a grandparent, or to have a relaxing meal on your own terms. We ate some great meals in the surrounding restaurants, but I come from a family of talented cooks, so I get spoiled at family meals, too. Fresh, local rockfish grilled by my dad (who taught me almost everything I know about cooking), my grandpa’s famous cream cheese scrambled eggs and more all were passed around the table to choruses of “Mmm”s. That is one thing that I will miss the most during my upcoming travels: sharing a meal with my family. Time to make some new friends and share the table with old ones, though!

My Favorite Five: Things to do in Sonoma County, CA

02 Monday Jul 2012

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My family vacation is over, and my individual adventure begins. I was lucky enough to spend 8 days in Jenner, CA with my parents and some extended family, although I missed my little brother a ton and wish he had been able to join us. Here are my 5 recommendations of things to do if you’re in Sonoma County! 
Go wine tasting in Dry Creek Valley near Healdsburg, CA:
The last time my family went wine-tasting, I was about 14 and not allowed to drink. Although I tasted a few wines there, it obviously didn’t compare to the full experience of driving from winery to winery, sipping from glasses and dumping out the untasted wine to prepare for the next taste.
Vineyards at Wilson Wineries

Wine barrels at Ferrari-Cardano
Explore Petaluma, CA:
On the day we drove in to Sonoma County, we happened upon a farmers’ market in Petaluma’s Walnut Square. There, we found a delightful and delicious assortment of vegetables, fruit, cheeses, hummus, bread and more.
Chocolate!
On one of my last days in the area, we went to Petaluma and got to walk around the main part of the town; there are so many great boutiques, antique stores, book shops, food (including a killer chocolate shop! Viva Cocolat!) and we even got to the movie theatre. Petaluma seems to have the comforts of a bigger place with the feel of a small town.
Walk through the Armstrong Redwoods outside of Guerneville, CA:
Be inspired by the strength and antiquity of these incredible trees. There are hikes and walks ranging from .5 miles of easy trail to strenuous 9 mile treks for the fittest of hikers. Admire the stillness and light filtering through the gargantuan flora.
Hang out with the seals in Jenner, CA:
View of the Russian River in Jenner, CA
Okay, so maybe “hang out” isn’t the right term, but “admire from afar” may suit. Drive down to Goat Rock Beach and walk to the jetty to inspect the seals (from the appropriate distance, mind you!) or rent a kayak and paddle to the nearby shore for the same privilege. The Nature Channel up close and personal, seriously! I, for one, never knew what weird croaking noises seals made until I heard them in person.
Survey the surf along the Sonoma Coast Trail in Sonoma County, CA:
Whether the fog is rolling in like a scene from a Hitchcock or it’s blue skies as far as the eye can see, it’s worth walking any of the paths that connect the beaches along the coast. We drove to Grill Way and walked about a mile south, all the while gawking at the beautiful view of the coastline. Even in the fog, it was impressive. Trails are well marked, and can vary in length; if you want, you can even connect it with your seal hangout by walking the path that goes all the way to Goat Rock Beach!