Tags
Photo of my Day: Carrick Rope Bridge
20 Thursday Dec 2012
Posted in Destinations, Photo of My Day
20 Thursday Dec 2012
Posted in Destinations, Photo of My Day
Tags
19 Wednesday Dec 2012
Posted in Destinations, Travel Musings
Tags
And so it was that I found myself being bussed to the Connemara Coast Hotel with a bunch of other dancers, most of whom I’d met along my travels through Ireland. The venue was very nice; along the coast of Ireland, they had decked out the ballroom with a lovely banner and the floor was a nice, live wood. Seeing so many familiar faces from nights out swing dancing in Cork, Dublin, Kilkenny and Galway made me feel better, although I was still nervous as heck!
I had signed up for 2 events: Jack & Jill, which is where you don’t know who your partner will be until the dance itself, and the Open Lindy–often also called a “strictly”–where you choose your partner beforehand. I was dancing with Rory, with whom I’d be dancing basically for 3 weeks straight only a short time before.
They finally called my heat to dance, and I was wildly nervous. So nervous, in fact, that although I was given 2 great leads to dance with, I totally let my butterflies get the best of me and didn’t allow myself to follow, or be creative, or basically do anything right at all (at least, that’s how it felt.)
Disclaimer: For some reason, some of these videos may not be visible in the USA. I’m not sure why…so sorry in advance if you can’t watch some of them! Also, if you’re interested in watching the whole competition–including fabulous solo charleston, great up-and-comers, and more, you can do so here at the Galway Swing YouTube channel!
Continue reading
13 Thursday Dec 2012
Posted in Travel Musings
Tags
![]() |
| From back in my ballroom days at a comp in Vegas… |
Then, in 2006, I learned how to lindy hop. It kind of changed my life.
![]() |
| From the Tucson Lindy Bomb 2007, I think. |
03 Monday Dec 2012
Posted in Destinations, Favorite 5
Tags
Kilkenny is a lovely city. Although small–about 24,000 people–it has a vibrant nightlife and good shopping, as well as some of the best Irish folk around. Here are 5 of my favorite things I did in Kilkenny, many of which I’ve posted about already.
01 Saturday Dec 2012
Posted in Destinations
27 Tuesday Nov 2012
Posted in Destinations, Travel Musings
Tags
That being said, I always pounce on the opportunity to embarrass myself, so when I found out Nikolaj Coster-Waldau, aka Jaime Lannister from Game of Thrones, was going to be in Kilkenny for Subtitle, their first European film festival, I couldn’t resist trying to catch a sighting.
No, I didn’t get a chance to see any films in the festival (to be fair, I wanted to but it never quite worked with my schedule).
Yes, I paid 20 euro to watch awards being given to people whose work I hadn’t seen (sorry about that, again. I hear the festival was super.).
Yes, I felt like a bit of a poser. BUT, it was, as the Irish say, good craic. Some friends and I got gussied up, had a couple glasses of wine with some of Ireland’s finest (Jim Sheridan was there, whom I had to google but should have known), and enjoyed the awards ceremony, which was held in The Set, a really lovely theatre in Kilkenny.
My goal was to get a photo with the debonair Nikolaj. He arrived just before the awards began, and left almost immediately after. But not before I got a photo with him (technically) and ordered a drink at the bar next to him. Unlike my other undignified encounters with famous actors, I restrained myself. I didn’t interrupt him while we were at the bar as he chatted with one of the Romanian actors, but I did note that he had a Kindle in the same black case that I have. E-reader twinsies!
Here’s my photo with the Kingslayer.
24 Saturday Nov 2012
Posted in Photo of My Day, Travel Musings
I think I have made a decision, though. I like fall. A lot. I might even love fall, which has stunned me at every turn. I joke to people when I tell them where I”m from that I sound like a little kid running around here. “Ooh, look at the leaves! PRETTYYYYYYY! They’re so COLORFUL!” and people just laugh and shake their heads, kind of like when Kat & I were traveling in Scotland and marveled at the plethora of rainbows overhead every other day.
So why this change of heart? A picture is worth a thousand words, as they say. Here are a few to explain why autumn has seduced me.
23 Friday Nov 2012
Posted in Bumbling Bites, Travel Musings

Thanksgiving 2012 in Kilkenny
My third Thanksgiving abroad went swimmingly. I accomplished so many things that I normally do on Thanksgiving:
22 Thursday Nov 2012
Posted in Bumbling Bites, Travel Musings
![]() |
| From Thanksgiving 2007 in Orvieto, Italy |
Thanksgiving at my family’s household goes something like this: get up in the morning, start prepping. We shoot for our Thanksgiving meal around 1 p.m. although we are not always successful. My dad has already prepared the chicken stock, and the pecan pies, and the task of the morning is to get the turkey done, as well as a pancetta stuffing and my sweet potato cheesecake. Cousins and aunts and uncles and grandparents filter in at different times, all bringing dishes, some that have become part of our holiday tradition. The Thanksgiving Day Parade is on in the background (and after that, our favorite part, the National Dog Show). We cook together and drink OJ–or mimosas, or just champagne–and I always enjoy the hustle and bustle of the kitchen.
We get to the table around 1 or 2, and often the weather is good enough to eat outside in our patio. Today the high is projected to be 82F, so I imagine that’s where they’ll eat today. (In Kilkenny, the weather forecast is grim: high of 48 and rainy.)
But today I won’t be there. This will be my third Turkey Day away from my clan. Twice before I was away in Italy, but still celebrated Thanksgiving with other Americans, friends and a real roast turkey.
Today I will be the only American. I am planning the whole meal and cooking most of it for three other people who have become my makeshift Kilkenny family. Rather than a turkey, I think we’ll do a roast chicken, and I’m going to shoot for a cornbread, some mashed potatoes & gravy, green beans, some sort of cranberry relish and tiramisu for dessert. I’ll write another post to let you guys all know how my Thanksgiving panned out (ha, get it? Pan!).
Although I’ll miss my family today (and Betty’s cranberry-citrus relish, and that awesome corn souffle, and my dad’s homemade pecan pies with heaps of whipped cream), I am happy to say that I have so, so much to be grateful for. Here are the main things. (Huge sap alert, btw.)
I am thankful for my incredible family, friends and boyfriend, all of whom supported me on this crazy life leap. It wasn’t an easy decision for me to make, for me to quit my job to travel for the year. It meant–and still means–spending time away from people I love. But all of them encouraged me to pursue this passion, and to have this experience now rather than waiting. No “shoulda coulda woulda” for this gal–at least, not yet. Thank you, and I love you.
I am thankful for my amazing and generous friends abroad who have put me up AND put up with me! It would have been a very different trip if I had not gotten to spend time with all my wonderful friends in Europe: Alba, who picked me up from the train station late at night and gave me a bed for my triumphant return to Italia, Bonnie and VP for hosting me (and Bon for giving me some more wardrobe options!), Maddalena & Pompeo for continuing to be my Roman family, Stephen & Jenny for allowing me to disrupt their move to Siena, Emily & Logan, who shared the road and the Tuscan countryside with me. Robin & Michel treated me to Alsace, even during their busy work weeks. I truly treasured being able to spend so much time with my dear friend Marijn and her boyfriend Tijmen in their lovely home in Amsterdam, and hanging out with Jobie, too. These were all friendships from before this year, but all of them were strengthened. Thank you, and I love you.
I am thankful for the fellow travelers I’ve met in passing who have brightened my experience. These are people whose names maybe I never even learned, who I shared a hostel room with or a bus ride or a drink. They are the ones with whom I’ve exchanged good conversation and will probably never see again. But I’ll remember them as being part of the fabric of my travels, and for that, I”m thankful.
I am also incalculably thankful for the people who started as strangers, and welcomed me into their homes and their lives without second thought.
I am continually blown away by the ceaseless generosity I have encountered in my life, and especially within the last four months. Whether I was traveling with Boris or with friends or alone, there have been people along the way who have given me a place to sleep, and food, and at every turn remind me how full of kindness and trust the world can be. Our wonderful host in Ankara, who gave up his bed for us and slept on the couch; Mehmet, our new friend and tour guide of that same city; the Halligan family, with whom I farmed and lived for a whole month in Umbria; the gals in Cork who told me I could stay as long as I liked; all the Irish swing dancers who have made me feel like part of their community, especially Michael, who took me surfing and dancing even though I burned the rice, and Rory, who hasn’t minded hanging out for the past couple weeks with a 25-year-old Yank who confuses Neil Diamond and Neil Young (and Anna, for watching American Horror Story with me); Becks & Tom, for the good craic & yoga & movie-watching & dance spotting.
I hope that there will be more to come with these new friends, and that someday I can repay the hospitality and warmth that they showed me during my time away from home. They have all helped create new mini-homes and micro-families for me in new places, and for that, I am thankful.
12 Monday Nov 2012
Posted in Destinations, Travel Musings
Today I took a bit of time to run over to Kilkenny Castle, one of the main attractions in my current town.
It was built in 1195 in Kilkenny, right on the river, and was initially home to the Pembrokes. At the end of the 14th century, the Butler clan bought it and owned it for more than 500 years; in the 1930’s, they immigrated to the USA and their family still lives in the Chicago area. The castle was sold to the city of Kilkenny by the last Butler for 50 £ in 1967.
The castle itself was beautiful and old, and the exterior is a wonderfully haunting grey limestone. I’ll have to post photos later, as I went on a bit of a whim today and didn’t have my phone or camera.
The interior is grand and much had to be restored, because for 32 years the castle was uninhabited and dry rot corroded a lot of the building. They were able to restore the family’s drawing room to a replica, and their portrait and painting collection has been preserved, too. One of the cool pieces is a huge marble table in the reception room, which was also the family’s wake table where their deceased would rest for 3 days while family and friends would come and pay their respects.
My favorite tidbit I learned on the tour was about the “pole screens” that were in the drawing room. Basically, a pole screen is exactly what it sounds like: a little screen on a pole, often decorated, that was used to shield the ladies’ faces from the heat of the fire. They would use these to a) retain their ladylike complexions, and b) prevent their make-up, with a base of wax, from melting off. We get the phrase “saving face” from this.
Cool, huh?
The other thing I asked about at the end of the tour was, of course, the ghost stories. I had this romantic notion upon coming to Ireland that I’d query every barman in the old pubs about ghost stories of the pubs and such, and so far have been disappointed. At Kyteler’s Inn, which should have some killer ghost stories,* the bartender just shrugged and said he didn’t know any. Lame. The guide at the castle, though, had a few tidbits for me. Here they are: