Alive & Well in Scotland
31 Tuesday Jul 2012
Posted in Travel Musings
31 Tuesday Jul 2012
Posted in Travel Musings
26 Thursday Jul 2012
Posted in Travel Musings
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25 Wednesday Jul 2012
Posted in Destinations
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| Geia sas, Greece! |
For those of you who don’t know from previous posts and Facebook status updates, today I”m heading to Edinburgh, Scotland for 10 days of touring through the Highlands! My last days in Greece have been truly wonderful, and I am honest in saying that Greece has become one of my absolute favorite countries in which to travel. If you haven’t been here, definitely consider it for your next vacation spot.
So, what does my Scotland trip mean for you lovely folks?
I’m not sure how frequently I”ll be posting, but I will try to at least do some photo updates as we go along. I have a feeling we’re going to try to take advantage of as much as possible, and there may not be as much down time as I’ve had lately to work on writing and photo editing, etc. But never fear! This is what you can look forward to, post-wise, in the coming weeks from Bumblings of Miss Button:
23 Monday Jul 2012
Posted in Destinations
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| From the sanctuary of Olympia |
This weekend was a breath of fresh air. After traveling alone for almost a week having only had 2 substantial conversations–one with an Aussie waiting for our bus from Delphi, the other with a Swiss kid on the way back from Mycenae–I got to meet up with a dear, dear friend of mine and make some new ones who were working on the Mt. Lykaion Excavation and Survey Project.
Our destination on Sunday was none other than Olympia, home to the ancient Olympic games. It was fitting to go to Olympia with them, because their site, located near Megalopolis, in Arcadia, has brought forth finds that suggest Mt. Lykaion–a possible “birthplace” of Zeus–to be the originator of games to Zeus that inspired the ancient Olympics.That the modern Olympics fall this year was an even cooler coincidence.
Here are the basics: the ancient Olympic games supposedly began in 776 BCE in Olympia in honor of Zeus, king of the gods. Just as in the modern Olympics, the ancient games took place every four years, and (male, Greek-speaking) athletes came from all over the country to participate.
Events that were held during these games:
Boxing: unlike today’s boxing matches, ancient boxing didn’t have weight classes, nor were there rules about beating an opponent while he was down. You win when you knock the guy out, or he quits on ya.
Chariot Racing: Races lasted for 9 miles (12 laps around the stadium), and were divided in category by number of horses you had (2 or 4).
Horse riding: This sport strikes me as having huge similarities with modern horse-racing. Because of the high cost of training, feeding and equipping a horse and his jockey, the owner was the one who got the laurel wreath and the glory. Their event was 6 laps around the arena, or a little more than 4 miles.
Pankration: A combo of wrestling and boxing. The only limits were NO gouging or biting in the eye/nose/mouth area. Yikes.
Pentathlon: Included discus, javelin, jumping, running & wrestling.
Running events: Just like now, there were a variety of running events, varying in length. One that we certainly don’t have anymore is the hoplite race, which required the participants to run in full hoplite armor, which weighed up to 60 lbs!
Wrestling: You had to down your opponent 3 times fairly. Oh, and don’t forget, no genital grabbing or biting.
Ancient Olympia, as a site, is expansive. Temples, altars, treasuries, stoas, training areas, housing areas, and the stadium were all part of the deal, so I’m going to share some highlights.
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| Ruins of colonnades from the gymnasion |
Gymnasion: Your instinct to think “gym” is right! The gymnasion was basically a structure where men could train for running, javelin and discus, so there was an open-air central courtyard to do all these things, with a colonnade running around it. Nearby was the Palaistra, another training building but with more roofing and with special rooms for body work like oiling up those muscle-y muscles or having baths, as well as training for wrestling, jumping and boxing.
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| Temple of Hera at Olympia |
The Temple of Hera: an archaic Doric temple, this place was supposedly where they housed the disk of the Sacred Truce, which was an agreement the country had made to allow their athletes safe passage the month before the Olympic games, meaning no one would attack another group at that time. It’s also the oldest temple in the sanctuary, dating to the end of the 7th century BCE. Cool fact: Right in front of this temple is the Altar of Hera, where the Olympic flame is lit for the modern Olympic games, and has been since 1936.
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| Council house area |
Council House Bouleyterion: where the athletes and judges took the sacred oath, and also the meeting place for the Olympic Committee.
The Temple of Zeus at Olympia, which I somehow forgot to photograph. Well done, me. Anyway, it’s a hugely important peripteral temple, in which once resided a gigantor chryselephantine (ivory & gold) sculpture of a seated Zeus that was 43 feet tall, and worked by the famous sculptor, Phidias! The temple was destroyed in the 6th century CE by earthquakes.
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| Base of the Zanes |
Bases of the Zanes: Probably my favorite things, second to the stadium. These were sculptures of Zeus created as tribute, but were a penalty to cheaters and a warning to athletes considering it! If you cheated in the ancient Olympic games, you kept your olive-leaf crown. BUT, you’d get fined, and with the sum of the fine, this lovely Zeus sculpture would go up, and at the base of the sculpture, the explanation of your cheating scheme would be written. Athletes passed these Zanes–plural for Zeus–on their way into the stadium. Nothing like some good, old-fashioned public humiliation to keep things ethical at the games, eh?
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| The archway into the stadium. Every Olympic athlete would see this before heading in. |
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| Check it out, I’m right here! |
The Olympic Stadium: With room for about 45,000 people to sit on the grassy surroundings, the Olympic stadium provided special stone seats for the judges on one side, and a spot just for the priestess of Demester, across the track from the judges.
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| The starting blocks for the running races. |
The shortest foot race at the Olympics was the stadion, a sprint from one end of the stadium to the other, which was about 192 meters–almost double our classic modern 100 meter dash!
The proper starting position was with the left foot in the front groove of the starting block and the right behind. Barefoot. Here’s a demonstration of proper starting position:
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| Diana and me showing how the ancients started off! Except for the barefoot thing. We’re not that hardcore. |
Naturally, I had to run it. After all, when else would I get to compete where other Olympians had? So, Lauren humored me, and we ran. It was really hot, and we didn’t realize at first where the end of the run was because there was an area about 3/4 of the way down that seemed like the end, but then we saw the finish line and booked it. I won, but she probably let me.
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| Running a stadion in the Olympic stadium. And no, I didn’t push Lauren out of the way in the 2nd frame, I promise. |
The archaeological museum at the site is also very well curated. Be sure to check out the sweet bronzes, and the main center room is devoted to the marbles from the Temple of Zeus, which depict the labors of Hercules, the battle between the Lapiths & Centaurs, as well as the story of Pelops, who supposedly founded the original Olympic games.
22 Sunday Jul 2012
Posted in Photo of My Day, Uncategorized
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20 Friday Jul 2012
Posted in Destinations, Favorite 5, Travel Musings
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| Nafplio from the water on the way to the island fortress |
Finding things to do in Nafplio is not complicated, mostly because those things to do are simple and accessible! Way to go, Nafplio! (See, it even makes a sweet rhyme.) My arrival here, which entailed getting from Delphi to Athens to the Peloponnese via bus, metro, on foot, and by zeppelin (kidding), was duly rewarded by Nafplio itself; by the time I had made it from the KTEL station to my little hotel, I was already in love.
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| Unedited sunset off the port in Napflio. |
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| Palamidi! |
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| Legend has it that there are 999 steps. I started counting and got to about 18 when I got distracted and decided counting was a silly idea. |
If art isn’t your thing, then maybe epic Greek poetry is. If the names Agamemnon, Orestes, Clytemnestera, or Iphegeneia sound familiar, Mycenae is supposedly the place where they hung out.
In any case, the ruins are fun to explore, especially if you have an interest in ancient history. Mycenae’s structures date back to the 16th century BCE, and include grave circles, a cistern, remnants of house layouts, a granary, the lion’s gate, the treasury of Atreus, and, of course, the palace.
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| Me in front of the Treasury of Atreus |
Again, be sure to bring a hat and water, as there is minimal shade on the citadel. The KTEL bus from Nafplio to Mycenae (look for Mykenes on the bus) takes you right to the site in just about an hour, and runs 3 or 4 times a day.
Cost? 5.80 euro for round-trip bus ticket + 8 euro for entrance to the site*
20 Friday Jul 2012
Posted in Photo of My Day
19 Thursday Jul 2012
Posted in Destinations
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The transition from spending 24/7 with my darlin’ boyfriend to being all by my lonesome for what felt like 25/8 was tougher than I thought. Both my trips to Greece so far have been safely protected by his presence and good Greek language skills, so starting off on my own for 10 days was going to be different.
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| My lone shadow at sunset in Delphi, symbolic, yadda yadda. 😉 |
Once I arrived in Delphi, I was overwhelmed by feelings: of loneliness, sure, but more than that, of panic. If I’m so sorry to be alone and it’s only the first day, how am I going to survive this year? was my thought. I allowed myself a few moments of complete insanity before thinking about ways to feel better. How can I spend my unstructured free time? This seemed to be the most important question, as it was in those off-moments that I was most prone to meltdown. Write, was the obvious answer. But writing alone is a solitary endeavor, so I’m still trying to figure out how I may want to spend time otherwise, as well. Volunteering is one option, perhaps seeking conversation partner another, depending on the country I’m in. In any case, my day of “mourning” ended and my first day of real independence began.
Delphi was very cool, but I was only there for one night. My next stop, I had decided, was Nafplio. A number of folks had told me Nafplio was beautiful, beautiful, beautiful, Boris assured me I would love it, and so I went. How did I get there, you might ask? By being super resourceful and amazing? NO, not really, but it sure felt like that!
Step 1: Buy a bus ticket. The taverna where the bus had dropped us off from Athens is the new KTEL, apparently, so I walked into the restaurant and asked for the ticket. Greeks generally speak English, which is really helpful for me. (I had heard enough from Boris, though, to be able to say a few things, but that would only mislead the Greek to whom I was speaking! I’d ask for something in Greek, they’d reply in the same language only to be met by my confused stare.)
The bus from Delphi to Athens left at 11 a.m. Or, at least, it was supposed to, but it arrived at 11:20 and we were on our way.
Step 2: Take the bus to Attiki metro stop. The bus for Delphi arrives at Stathmos Liossion, which is bus station B and services some of the northern parts of Greece. It’s much smaller than the other bus station, as I would soon learn. I remembered how Boris and I had gotten to the metro when we had arrived there from Meteora, so I walked to the nearest periptero and then took a bus (basically any city bus goes far enough down that street to get you to Attiki), dutifully asked the driver, “Attiki?” And when he nodded, hopped off.
Step 3: Take the metro from Attiki to Omonia. I knew to do this thanks to the desk lady at Athens Backpackers, where I had stayed my last night in Athens. She had given me a really excellent map, and given me directions to Station A before realizing I needed to get to Station B. Thus, I had both sets of directions, and my absolutely genius brain (haha) decided to meld the directions together.
I knew I had to get to Omonia. Some had suggested I take a cab to the bus station from there, but the hostel lady disagreed. To save money–and, perhaps, for a subconscious desire to prove to myself that I could do it–I stuck to her directions. Attiki and Omonia are on the same line, so all I had to do was hop on the train in the direction of Piraeus, and get off a few stops along the way.
Omonia is not known as being the safest area in Athens; in fact, many guidebooks tell you to avoid the place altogether at night. It was only 2:30 p.m., though, and I felt perfectly safe.
Step 4: Walk to the next bus stop. Here, I had to go directly from the directions she had given me: take the Piros (Piraos? some P street name) exit from the metro stop, which is a spider of entrances and exits, and walk along it. Take a RIGHT onto Zinonas. I ended up asking a few people where Zinonas was, since I walked right past it. I was expecting a trafficked street, but realized Zinonas was, in part, pedestrian-only. I fooled a periptero guy into thinking I spoke Greek when I asked for the street, and he replied; my suspicions that it was to the right were confirmed when I caught “dexia,” so I knew I was on the right track.
After only a few minutes of wandering, I found Zinonas. Took a right. Walked two blocks, and looked for a bus stop. There was one on my right, now the trick would be to make sure it went the right way! Again, language barriers are really not so much barriers as interesting opportunities to interact and mime, if need be. I brokenly explained where I needed to go to the driver, he affirmed I was in the right place, and so I went. Bus 51 runs every 10 minutes, and the last stop is directly at Terminal A of the bus station.
Step 5: Buy a ticket to Nafplio! I asked at information which window I should find for my ticket, and she told me “outside.” Bus Station Kafissos is HUGE. At least, it felt that way compared to Lission, where there is one waiting area and about 8 bus bays. Here, I couldn’t even tell how many bus bays there were, because I couldn’t see to the end of the station. I saw a sign saying “Nafplio <–” and headed that way. Argolides is the area where Nafplio is located for the busses, and I had just the right amount of time to buy a ticket, which was leaving, as I suspected, at 3:30, go to the bathroom, pick up a sandwich, and get back to my bus before it started boarding.
Solo travel success! Man, it felt good to be able not only to get from point A to point B, but to do it using multiple forms of public transport and only spend 1.40 euro rather than paying for a cab. I knew where to buy my tickets, (don’t forget, if you need a bus/metro ticket, it’s the same price but be sure to tell the periptero person, because apparently it’s a different type of ticket. AND DON’T FORGET TO VALIDATE and keep your ticket with you! They do check in Greece, a lot more often than in Italy, for sure) I knew how to validate them (busses have a thingy on board, metro stations have validation points close to the entrance), and I ultimately got to where I needed to go.
Now, I’m situated in Nafplio, which is basically one of my new favorite places. More on that coming soon!
17 Tuesday Jul 2012
Posted in Destinations, Photo of My Day
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| Delphi at dusk |
Delphi is one of the most famous places for ancient Greece, and was considered the “navel of the earth.” Its importance was derived from the great temple to Apollo, where the female Oracle would spout gibberish induced by inhaling vapors rising from the earth, which was then interpreted by priests for those seeking information. Famous folks like Lysander, Philip II of Macedon, Cicero, and the emperor Nero consulted the Oracle, as well as many others. Her prophecies–proof of her communion with Apollo–were often vague. Think “horoscope” but for bigger questions.
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| Sculptural rendering of Prometheus |
After a very warm night (note to self: ALWAYS make sure Greek hotel rooms have AC before booking in summer), I rose at 6:15 to visit the ruins. The ruins of Delphi open at 7:30 a.m. and it’s worth buying the 9 euro combination ticket to the ruins and the museum, as the museum really does have a lot of spiffy stuff.
It’s also worth going early, especially if you’re there in the summer. Trust me. I’m from Arizona. Our summer temps often reach 115 F (46 C), and this summer in the Mediterranean it is FRIGGIN’ HOT. No joke. By the time I left the ruins around 8:45, I was really starting to sweat. Do yourself a favor, bring a big bottle of water, and go to the ruins early. If you have no interest in the museum, you can also visit the ruins late–they close at 6:30 or so on weekdays. The museum closes at 3 p.m. daily.
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| Path to the ruins |
Because I had arrived so early, I was the first one to the site and was shortly followed by a young couple from Belarus. For the first thirty minutes or so, it was just us and the site caretakers. One thing to keep in mind: the site does have markers and explanations, but not for everything. If you’re really interested in the explanations behind the ruins, be sure to grab a guide book or hire a tour guide for the full rundown of Delphi!
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| Mosaic |
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| Can you tell I’m a bit tired? 😉 |
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| On this wall are inscribed prayers and offerings to Apollo |
According to myth, Zeus wanted to find out where the center of the world was. His very scientific process was to loose two eagles and see where they met and drop a stone to mark its place. That place was Delphi. The stone, the omphalos, supposedly looked conical but had not been touched by man. The omphalos was important for the Pythia’s process of prophesying. It would be covered with a net and had decorations on it. This one is a replica, and many replicas had been made throughout the centuries.
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| Nice wall. |
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| The treasury of Athens, which was dedicated by the people of Athens. |
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| This polygonal wall was pretty impressively situated, seeing as the stones fit together very well! A remarkable example of ancient building. |
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| View of the site from halfway up |
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| Behind me is the Temple of Apollo! |
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| The Temple of Apollo! |
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| artsy shot through the ruins |
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| Stadium where the Pythian Games were held. |
Other than being home to the oracle, Delphi was also home to the running of the Pythian Games, also known as the Delphic Games. These games were one of the four panhellenic games of Ancient Greece, and were held every four years. (Sound familiar? Well, the Panhellenic Games were the predecessors to the Olympic Games!) Events that took place at these games included chariot racing, wrestling, running, javelin throwing, and more. The Delphic Games differed because they included artistic events sacred to Apollo: dance, drama, recitation, singing, and music!
Some shots from the museum:
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| These twin kouroi are some of the best–and first–examples of large-scale sculpture from the 6th century BCE. Memories of high school AP Art History came rushing back to me as I saw these dudes! |
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| Antinoos, who had been the companion of the Emperor Hadrian and had died tragically in the Nile and was later deified by the emperor. He was worshiped as a cult figure, mostly outside of Rome. |
Currently there is an exhibit touring the world called Myrtis: Face to Face With the Past. Basically, in the 1990’s, excavations unearthed remains from those in Athens who died from typhoid fever. One skull was particularly well preserved, so a professor from the University of Athens decided to reconstruct her face. The goal in touring this exhibit is, in part, to remind the world–especially the UN–of its goal to end poverty by 2015. “Myrtis,” as she is called, had died in the 5th century from the illness that killed about a third of Athens, the treatment for which at the time was unknown. Today, though, the World Health Organization estimates that 9 million children die a year from preventable and treatable diseases.
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I enjoyed my early morning trip to the site, and the museum was curated very well. Obviously there were many other artifacts other than the ones posted, but these were what caught my eye the most. I also really did enjoy the Myrtis exhibit, as it explained not only how they recreated her, but also some essentials about archaeology that are accessible to the general public, including kids. Knowledge is power, people!
Ever been to Delphi? Do you have any tips to share?
16 Monday Jul 2012
Posted in Destinations
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| See the bitty Acropolis? |
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| Athens is so deserty! It’s like home! |
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| I guess the panorama setting on my camera works… |
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| Hi! |
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| I wish I had the camera skills to take better sunset photos slash how to use a real camera. |
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| Lowering the flag |
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| Folding the flag |
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| Top of the little church |