3 Ways to Be a Courteous Hostel-Goer

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I’ve stayed in my fair share of hostels in the time I’ve traveled, and almost across the board I’ve had great experiences. Rooming in hostels is a great way to meet new people, get tips about the city you’re in from the staff, and (usually) not break the bank. 
But staying in a hostel almost always means sharing space; whether you’re in a 4-bed ensuite or a 16-bed with an exterior bathroom, you’re probably going to be hanging out—and sleeping—with strangers (come on, you know what I mean). Here are 3 things to keep in mind to keep you from being that person the other sleepers complain about to their new friends at their next hostel. 

-Say “hello.” One of the best things about staying in hostels is its social atmosphere. Someone new coming into your room? Are you sitting alone at the hostel bar? Ask others about their trips—where they’re coming from, where they’re headed, what their favorite place has been. Chances are that you’ll be met with enthusiasm and interesting stories. Even better, you might share part of your itinerary with that person, so you can swap tips and recommendations! It’ll be pretty clear whether he or she wants to chat, though, so if you get the cues that they need to some alone time, maybe give it another try later. 
-Do your part to help keep common areas tidy. Some hostels are better staffed than others when it comes to cleaning up. A few places I’ve stayed in have dishwashers for the included breakfast; others have a strict “clean up after yourself” policy. Good hostels usually clean communal bathrooms once a day, but the level of sanitation can vary. Obviously, when you have dozens of people in and out of a tiny bathroom with an even tinier shower every day, or using a communal kitchen to prepare meals, it can be hard to keep things clean. Basically, if you make a mess, clean it up. This is a kindergarten rule: if you shower and water gets everywhere, sometimes there will be a mop or other type of squeegee-esque thingamabob. Use it. If you’re cooking and your sauce spills all over the stove, don’t just shrug and eat your pasta without wiping it up. Or, if you are staying at a hostel with a cleaning staff, inform the front desk so that they can take care of it before it affects others.
If you consider only one of these three suggestions, please let this be it:
 -Respect sleep time. Yes, I get it. It’s a hostel, not some 5-star hotel. But guess what? That doesn’t mean you can leave courtesy at the door. You never know when your dorm-mates are rising early for a morning flight, or perhaps are trying to rest up while battling a cold. Or maybe they just want to sleep. I refuse to accept that I won’t ever get a good night’s rest at a hostel just because it’s a hostel.
So what does that mean? Be mindful of your noise level. If you come in at 1 a.m. and people are sleeping, don’t read that as your opportunity to make it into Guinness for highest decibel level produced by a human. Does that mean no talking at all if you’re trying to communicate with your buddies? No, of course not. You don’t need to learn Morse code to use with a flashlight and sheets just to remind them what time you’re rendezvous-ing in the morning. Whisper instead. If you come into the room loud and drunk, you don’t get a free pass or anything but I won’t envy your morning.
Light. We’re not at the beginning of Genesis here, people. If you walk into a dorm room at night and the lights are out and you can make out a figure on the bed, turning the entire room light on is NOT okay. If you need some visual aid, use your cell phone, or a flashlight. If you have neither, consider propping the door open a bit to let hallway light in so you can grab your toothbrush or whatever, and then consider purchasing a travel flashlight (or download a flashlight app for your phone). Invaluable for situations just like these.
Ultimately, it all comes down to respect. Respect that you’re sharing a space, and think about the golden rule. Would you want to be woken up at 4 a.m. by a bright light and loud voices? Do you want to get somebody else’s hair from the shower drain stuck on your feet? No hostel will be perfect, but the more people think about simply being aware of others, the better everyone’s experience will be.

Itinerary update!

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Geia sas, Greece!

For those of you who don’t know from previous posts and Facebook status updates, today I”m heading to Edinburgh, Scotland for 10 days of touring through the Highlands! My last days in Greece have been truly wonderful, and I am honest in saying that Greece has become one of my absolute favorite countries in which to travel. If you haven’t been here, definitely consider it for your next vacation spot. 


So, what does my Scotland trip mean for you lovely folks?

I’m not sure how frequently I”ll be posting, but I will try to at least do some photo updates as we go along. I have a feeling we’re going to try to take advantage of as much as possible, and there may not be as much down time as I’ve had lately to work on writing and photo editing, etc. But never fear! This is what you can look forward to, post-wise, in the coming weeks from Bumblings of Miss Button:

  • Why I loved traveling in Greece (and why you should give it a shot, too!)
  • My trip to Sounio, the temple of Poseidon at the southernmost part of Attica
  • Tips about how to be a considerate hostel patron
  • And, of course, all about our trip to the Highlands!
Thanks so much for reading! Please don’t forget to “like” my page on Facebook, follow me on Twitter @SaraMelanie14 and on Instagram @SaraMelanie14! 

Ancient Olympia, or: The Day I Ran With the Olympians (In Spirit)

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From the sanctuary of Olympia

This weekend was a breath of fresh air. After traveling alone for almost a week having only had 2 substantial conversations–one with an Aussie waiting for our bus from Delphi, the other with a Swiss kid on the way back from Mycenae–I got to meet up with a dear, dear friend of mine and make some new ones who were working on the Mt. Lykaion Excavation and Survey Project.

Our destination on Sunday was none other than Olympia, home to the ancient Olympic games. It was fitting to go to Olympia with them, because their site, located near Megalopolis, in Arcadia, has brought forth finds that suggest Mt. Lykaion–a possible “birthplace” of Zeus–to be the originator of games to Zeus that inspired the ancient Olympics.That the modern Olympics fall this year was an even cooler coincidence.

Here are the basics: the ancient Olympic games supposedly began in 776 BCE in Olympia in honor of Zeus, king of the gods. Just as in the modern Olympics, the ancient games took place every four years, and (male, Greek-speaking) athletes came from all over the country to participate.

Events that were held during these games:

Boxing: unlike today’s boxing matches, ancient boxing didn’t have weight classes, nor were there rules about beating an opponent while he was down. You win when you knock the guy out, or he quits on ya.

Chariot Racing: Races lasted for 9 miles (12 laps around the stadium), and were divided in category by number of horses you had (2 or 4).

Horse riding: This sport strikes me as having huge similarities with modern horse-racing. Because of the high cost of training, feeding and equipping a horse and his jockey, the owner was the one who got the laurel wreath and the glory. Their event was 6 laps around the arena, or a little more than 4 miles.

Pankration: A combo of wrestling and boxing. The only limits were NO gouging or biting in the eye/nose/mouth area. Yikes.

Pentathlon: Included discus, javelin, jumping, running & wrestling. 


Running events: Just like now, there were a variety of running events, varying in length. One that we certainly don’t have anymore is the hoplite race, which required the participants to run in full hoplite armor, which weighed up to 60 lbs!

Wrestling: You had to down your opponent 3 times fairly. Oh, and don’t forget, no genital grabbing or biting.

Ancient Olympia, as a site, is expansive. Temples, altars, treasuries, stoas, training areas, housing areas, and the stadium were all part of the deal, so I’m going to share some highlights.

Ruins of colonnades from the gymnasion

Gymnasion: Your instinct to think “gym” is right! The gymnasion was basically a structure where men could train for running, javelin and discus, so there was an open-air central courtyard to do all these things, with a colonnade running around it. Nearby was the Palaistra, another training building but with more roofing and with special rooms for body work like oiling up those muscle-y muscles or having baths, as well as training for wrestling, jumping and boxing.

Temple of Hera at Olympia

The Temple of Hera: an archaic Doric temple, this place was supposedly where they housed the disk of the Sacred Truce, which was an agreement the country had made to allow their athletes safe passage the month before the Olympic games, meaning no one would attack another group at that time. It’s also the oldest temple in the sanctuary, dating to the end of the 7th century BCE. Cool fact: Right in front of this temple is the Altar of Hera, where the Olympic flame is lit for the modern Olympic games, and has been since 1936. 

Council house area



Council House Bouleyterion: where the athletes and judges took the sacred oath, and also the meeting place for the Olympic Committee.

The Temple of Zeus at Olympia, which I somehow forgot to photograph. Well done, me. Anyway, it’s a hugely important peripteral temple, in which once resided a gigantor chryselephantine (ivory & gold) sculpture of a seated Zeus that was 43 feet tall, and worked by the famous sculptor, Phidias! The temple was destroyed in the 6th century CE by earthquakes.

Base of the Zanes

Bases of the Zanes: Probably my favorite things, second to the stadium. These were sculptures of Zeus created as tribute, but were a penalty to cheaters and a warning to athletes considering it! If you cheated in the ancient Olympic games, you kept your olive-leaf crown. BUT, you’d get fined, and with the sum of the fine, this lovely Zeus sculpture would go up, and at the base of the sculpture, the explanation of your cheating scheme would be written. Athletes passed these Zanes–plural for Zeus–on their way into the stadium. Nothing like some good, old-fashioned public humiliation to keep things ethical at the games, eh?

The archway into the stadium. Every Olympic athlete would see this before heading in.

Check it out, I’m right here!

 The Olympic Stadium: With room for about 45,000 people to sit on the grassy surroundings, the Olympic stadium provided special stone seats for the judges on one side, and a spot just for the priestess of Demester, across the track from the judges. 

The starting blocks for the running races.

 The shortest foot race at the Olympics was the stadion, a sprint from one end of the stadium to the other, which was about 192 meters–almost double our classic modern 100 meter dash!

The proper starting position was with the left foot in the front groove of the starting block and the right behind. Barefoot. Here’s a demonstration of proper starting position:

Diana and me showing how the ancients started off! Except for the barefoot thing. We’re not that hardcore.

Naturally, I had to run it. After all, when else would I get to compete where other Olympians had? So, Lauren humored me, and we ran. It was really hot, and we didn’t realize at first where the end of the run was because there was an area about 3/4 of the way down that seemed like the end, but then we saw the finish line and booked it. I won, but she probably let me.

Running a stadion in the Olympic stadium. And no, I didn’t push Lauren out of the way in the 2nd frame, I promise. 

The archaeological museum at the site is also very well curated. Be sure to check out the sweet bronzes, and the main center room is devoted to the marbles from the Temple of Zeus, which depict the labors of Hercules, the battle between the Lapiths & Centaurs, as well as the story of Pelops, who supposedly founded the original Olympic games. 

My Favorite Five: Things to Do in Nafplio, Greece (On a Budget)

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Nafplio from the water on the way to the island fortress

Finding things to do in Nafplio is not complicated, mostly because those things to do are simple and accessible! Way to go, Nafplio! (See, it even makes a sweet rhyme.) My arrival here, which entailed getting from Delphi to Athens to the Peloponnese via bus, metro, on foot, and by zeppelin (kidding), was duly rewarded by Nafplio itself; by the time I had made it from the KTEL station to my little hotel, I was already in love.

That being said, Nafplio is not really a backpacker’s tourist destination. That’s okay, since I’m not really a backpacker I guess, but I am on more of a budget than, say, the yachting French family who might spend a week in Nafplio, too.
So, here are my five favorite things that I did in Nafplio over the week that I was there (Monday-Friday), and they didn’t even break the bank.
 
1. Catch the sunset off the port. I know, I know, I’m becoming a bit obsessed with sunsets. So sue me, they’re pretty, okay!? Plus, they are perfect for photos, since the light here in Greece is A.MAZ.ING. But really, they are also worth watching, especially in a setting like this one. The first night I arrived in Nafplio, I walked down to the port and ambled along the promenade. There are many places to sit, whether you want to watch the sun going to bed from a water-side cafe with a coffee in hand, or just from one of the many benches along the way. 
 
Cost? Free.  (Unless you take the cafe option, in which case, can be 3-6 euro, depending on your drink.)
 
Unedited sunset off the port in Napflio.
2. Go to the beach. A couple beach options exist in Nafplio. If you want sandy, go to Karathona beach, which is accessible by bus and is maybe a fifteen minute bus ride. You can also take a 5-8 euro cab ride there and it’ll take less than 10 minutes. Or so I hear. I never made it there, because I really liked the rocky beach, Aravitia. 
 
Aravitia is accessible on foot a couple different ways. For a less scenic route, head into town basically to the KTEL station, on Sigrou. When you’ve passed that, on the left is a little square with a statue in it; go that way and up, towards the stairs to the Palamidi Fortress. But, instead of working your buns on the stairs, keep going and you’ll hit the beach. There’s a snack bar, and umbrellas if you don’t bring your own. The water is so crystal clear that once in awhile when I was swimming, I’d see a fish and vaguely flail for a second before remembering that they’re not going to try to devour me. 
 
The other way to get to Aravitia is a lot prettier, although depending on where you’re coming from, takes longer. Go to the port, and follow its curve, keeping the cafes, etc. on your left. Just keep going, past the playground, past the other swimming area, and along the walking path. It hugs the coast and the town, and is quite picturesque. You’ll usually see a sailboat or two going along. Keep going, and you’ll run into Aravitia Beach! 
 
Cost? Free!  Note: Be sure to bring SUNBLOCK and a proper towel. Unless you’ve got shade, you won’t find any at the beach except for the paid umbrellas. Also, the rocks do get bloody hot, so spare yourself the discomfort and try to bring a terry cloth towel. (I’ve been using my coverup as a towel, and its just a thin layer of cotton, which did get particularly toasty, but not unbearable.) 
 
3. Climb the 999 steps to see the Palamidi Fortress. Other than being a great workout (again, bring sunblock! And water!), climbing the steps to the fortress affords you a very cool view of the city of Nafplio. As you ascend, the little peninsular shape of the town comes into view, and you can see from yet another angle how incredible Greece’s landscape really is. 
Palamidi!
Legend has it that there are 999 steps. I started counting and got to about 18 when I got distracted and decided counting was a silly idea.
I really enjoyed exploring the fortress, which was built in the 18th century and before it was finished, fell to the Turks, but was later recaptured in 1822 by the Greeks. Not only is it huge, with eight bastions, it also is a historically important part of the city. One of the heroes from the War of Independence, Kolokotronis, supposedly was imprisoned there, and you can see where he was kept. 
 
Plus, the view of the city and the sea is smashing. 
Cost? 4 euro. *
 
4. Go on a day-trip to Mycenae. What is Greece known for if not for its ruins? The austere glory of the Acropolis, the columns of Delphi, and don’t forget all the good stuff in the Peloponnese. If you took any kind of art history in high school (or college, or whenever), Mycenae should ring a bell. It’s where they found the “funerary mask” of Agamemnon, and the famous Lion’s Gate still stands.

If art isn’t your thing, then maybe epic Greek poetry is. If the names Agamemnon, Orestes, Clytemnestera, or Iphegeneia sound familiar, Mycenae is supposedly the place where they hung out.

In any case, the ruins are fun to explore, especially if you have an interest in ancient history. Mycenae’s structures date back to the 16th century BCE, and include grave circles, a cistern, remnants of house layouts, a granary, the lion’s gate, the treasury of Atreus, and, of course, the palace.

 
Me in front of the Treasury of Atreus

Again, be sure to bring a hat and water, as there is minimal shade on the citadel. The KTEL bus from Nafplio to Mycenae (look for Mykenes on the bus) takes you right to the site in just about an hour, and runs 3 or 4 times a day.

Cost? 5.80 euro for round-trip bus ticket + 8 euro for entrance to the site*

 
5. Go (Window) Shopping by the port. Nafplio really is one of those places where you can be happy just to walk around, especially in the evening time, around 7:30 or 8. One day I was here I just read my book in approximately 4 different places, just walking, sitting, reading, eating. Walk along the streets to check out clothing stores, jewelry shops, a leather shoe store where the craftsman works on the shoes right in front of your eyes. Grab the best gelato in Nafplio from Antica Gelateria di Roma (2.50 euro for a small cup of 2 flavors*), check out the only worry-bead museum in the world (3 euro or free for students with an ID*), or just people-watch as you meander through the streets.*Prices are as of July 2012
This post was linked to Pretty Travels Volume 2: Sun, Sea & Sand! Pretty Travels

Solo Travel Moment of Pride: Getting from Station B to Station A in Athens

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This is how I got from Lission to Kifissos all by myself!

The transition from spending 24/7 with my darlin’ boyfriend to being all by my lonesome for what felt like 25/8 was tougher than I thought. Both my trips to Greece so far have been safely protected by his presence and good Greek language skills, so starting off on my own for 10 days was going to be different.

My lone shadow at sunset in Delphi, symbolic, yadda yadda. 😉

Once I arrived in Delphi, I was overwhelmed by feelings: of loneliness, sure, but more than that, of panic. If I’m so sorry to be alone and it’s only the first day, how am I going to survive this year? was my thought. I allowed myself a few moments of complete insanity before thinking about ways to feel better. How can I spend my unstructured free time? This seemed to be the most important question, as it was in those off-moments that I was most prone to meltdown. Write, was the obvious answer. But writing alone is a solitary endeavor, so I’m still trying to figure out how I may want to spend time otherwise, as well. Volunteering is one option, perhaps seeking conversation partner another, depending on the country I’m in. In any case, my day of “mourning” ended and my first day of real independence began.

Delphi was very cool, but I was only there for one night. My next stop, I had decided, was Nafplio. A number of folks had told me Nafplio was beautiful, beautiful, beautiful, Boris assured me I would love it, and so I went. How did I get there, you might ask? By being super resourceful and amazing? NO, not really, but it sure felt like that!

Step 1: Buy a bus ticket. The taverna where the bus had dropped us off from Athens is the new KTEL, apparently, so I walked into the restaurant and asked for the ticket. Greeks generally speak English, which is really helpful for me. (I had heard enough from Boris, though, to be able to say a few things, but that would only mislead the Greek to whom I was speaking! I’d ask for something in Greek, they’d reply in the same language only to be met by my confused stare.)

The bus from Delphi to Athens left at 11 a.m. Or, at least, it was supposed to,  but it arrived at 11:20 and we were on our way.

Step 2: Take the bus to Attiki metro stop. The bus for Delphi arrives at Stathmos Liossion, which is bus station B and services some of the northern parts of Greece. It’s much smaller than the other bus station, as I would soon learn. I remembered how Boris and I had gotten to the metro when we had arrived there from Meteora, so I walked to the nearest periptero and then took a bus (basically any city bus goes far enough down that street to get you to Attiki), dutifully asked the driver, “Attiki?” And when he nodded, hopped off.

Step 3: Take the metro from Attiki to Omonia. I knew to do this thanks to the desk lady at Athens Backpackers, where I had stayed my last night in Athens. She had given me a really excellent map, and given me directions to Station A before realizing I needed to get to Station B. Thus, I had both sets of directions, and my absolutely genius brain (haha) decided to meld the directions together.

I knew I had to get to Omonia. Some had suggested I take a cab to the bus station from there, but the hostel lady disagreed. To save money–and, perhaps, for a subconscious desire to prove to myself that I could do it–I stuck to her directions. Attiki and Omonia are on the same line, so all I had to do was hop on the train in the direction of Piraeus, and get off a few stops along the way.

Omonia is not known as being the safest area in Athens; in fact, many guidebooks tell you to avoid the place altogether at night. It was only 2:30 p.m., though, and I felt perfectly safe.

Step 4: Walk to the next bus stop. Here, I had to go directly from the directions she had given me: take the Piros (Piraos? some P street name) exit from the metro stop, which is a spider of entrances and exits, and walk along it. Take a RIGHT onto Zinonas. I ended up asking a few people where Zinonas was, since I walked right past it. I was expecting a trafficked street, but realized Zinonas was, in part, pedestrian-only. I fooled a periptero guy into thinking I spoke Greek when I asked for the street, and he replied; my suspicions that it was to the right were confirmed when I caught “dexia,” so I knew I was on the right track.

After only a few minutes of wandering, I found Zinonas. Took a right. Walked two blocks, and looked for a bus stop. There was one on my right, now the trick would be to make sure it went the right way! Again, language barriers are really not so much barriers as interesting opportunities to interact and mime, if need be. I brokenly explained where I needed to go to the driver, he affirmed I was in the right place, and so I went. Bus 51 runs every 10 minutes, and the last stop is directly at Terminal A of the bus station. 


Step 5: Buy a ticket to Nafplio! I asked at information which window I should find for my ticket, and she told me “outside.” Bus Station Kafissos is HUGE. At least, it felt that way compared to Lission, where there is one waiting area and about 8 bus bays. Here, I couldn’t even tell how many bus bays there were, because I couldn’t see to the end of the station. I saw a sign saying “Nafplio <–” and headed that way. Argolides is the area where Nafplio is located for the busses, and I had just the right amount of time to buy a ticket, which was leaving, as I suspected, at 3:30, go to the bathroom, pick up a sandwich, and get back to my bus before it started boarding.

Solo travel success! Man, it felt good to be able not only to get from point A to point B, but to do it using multiple forms of public transport and only spend 1.40 euro rather than paying for a cab. I knew where to buy my tickets, (don’t forget, if you need a bus/metro ticket, it’s the same price but be sure to tell the periptero person, because apparently it’s a different type of ticket. AND DON’T FORGET TO VALIDATE and keep your ticket with you! They do check in Greece, a lot more often than in Italy, for sure) I knew how to validate them (busses have a thingy on board, metro stations have validation points close to the entrance), and I ultimately got to where I needed to go.

Now, I’m situated in Nafplio, which is basically one of my new favorite places. More on that coming soon!

The Ruins & Museum of Delphi (Mostly in Photos)

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Delphi at dusk

Delphi is one of the most famous places for ancient Greece, and was considered the “navel of the earth.” Its importance was derived from the great temple to Apollo, where the female Oracle would spout gibberish induced by inhaling vapors rising from the earth, which was then interpreted by priests for those seeking information. Famous folks like Lysander, Philip II of Macedon, Cicero, and the emperor Nero consulted the Oracle, as well as many others. Her prophecies–proof of her communion with Apollo–were often vague. Think “horoscope” but for bigger questions.

Sculptural rendering of Prometheus


After a very warm night (note to self: ALWAYS make sure Greek hotel rooms have AC before booking in summer), I rose at 6:15 to visit the ruins. The ruins of Delphi open at 7:30 a.m. and it’s worth buying the 9 euro combination ticket to the ruins and the museum, as the museum really does have a lot of spiffy stuff.

 It’s also worth going early, especially if you’re there in the summer. Trust me. I’m from Arizona. Our summer temps often reach 115 F (46 C), and this summer in the Mediterranean it is FRIGGIN’ HOT. No joke. By the time I left the ruins around 8:45, I was really starting to sweat. Do yourself a favor, bring a big bottle of water, and go to the ruins early. If you have no interest in the museum, you can also visit the ruins late–they close at 6:30 or so on weekdays. The museum closes at 3 p.m. daily.

Path to the ruins

 Because I had arrived so early, I was the first one to the site and was shortly followed by a young couple from Belarus. For the first thirty minutes or so, it was just us and the site caretakers. One thing to keep in mind: the site does have markers and explanations, but not for everything. If you’re really interested in the explanations behind the ruins, be sure to grab a guide book or hire a tour guide for the full rundown of Delphi!

Mosaic

Can you tell I’m a bit tired? 😉

On this wall are inscribed prayers and offerings to Apollo

According to myth, Zeus wanted to find out where the center of the world was. His very scientific process was to loose two eagles and see where they met and drop a stone to mark its place. That place was Delphi. The stone, the omphalos, supposedly looked conical but had not been touched by man. The omphalos was important for the Pythia’s process of prophesying. It would be covered with a net and had decorations on it. This one is a replica, and many replicas had been made throughout the centuries. 

Nice wall.

The treasury of Athens, which was dedicated by the people of Athens.

This polygonal wall was pretty impressively situated, seeing as the stones fit together very well! A remarkable example of ancient building.

View of the site from halfway up

Behind me is the Temple of Apollo!

The Temple of Apollo!

artsy shot through the ruins

Stadium where the Pythian Games were held.

 Other than being home to the oracle, Delphi was also home to the running of the Pythian Games, also known as the Delphic Games. These games were one of the four panhellenic games of Ancient Greece, and were held every four years. (Sound familiar? Well, the Panhellenic Games were the predecessors to the Olympic Games!) Events that took place at these games included chariot racing, wrestling, running,  javelin throwing, and more. The Delphic Games differed because they included artistic events sacred to Apollo: dance, drama, recitation, singing, and music!

Some shots from the museum:

These twin kouroi are some of the best–and first–examples of large-scale sculpture from the 6th century BCE. Memories of high school AP Art History came rushing back to me as I saw these dudes!

Antinoos, who had been the companion of the Emperor Hadrian and had died tragically in the Nile and was later deified by the emperor. He was worshiped as a cult figure, mostly outside of Rome.

Currently there is an exhibit touring the world called Myrtis: Face to Face With the Past. Basically, in the 1990’s, excavations unearthed remains from those in Athens who died from typhoid fever. One skull was particularly well preserved, so a professor from the University of Athens decided to reconstruct her face. The goal in touring this exhibit is, in part, to remind the world–especially the UN–of its goal to end poverty by 2015. “Myrtis,” as she is called, had died in the 5th century from the illness that killed about a third of Athens, the treatment for which at the time was unknown. Today, though, the World Health Organization estimates that 9 million children die a year from preventable and treatable diseases. 

This is the closest rendering to what young Myrtis would have looked like at her death. Scientists took into consideration age, historical diet and other factors to correctly estimate the amount of muscle to add to her facial structure. Coloring was based on her assumed heritage.

I enjoyed my early morning trip to the site, and the museum was curated very well. Obviously there were many other artifacts other than the ones posted, but these were what caught my eye the most. I also really did enjoy the Myrtis exhibit, as it explained not only how they recreated her, but also some essentials about archaeology that are accessible to the general public, including kids. Knowledge is power, people!

Ever been to Delphi? Do you have any tips to share? 

My Favorite Five: Things to Do in Athens, Take 2

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See the bitty Acropolis?
Know how, when growing up, you insist you don’t like cabbage because you tried it as a kid and really didn’t like it much? Or maybe its taste wasn’t quite what you expected, so you remained cynical that it would improve upon further tastes? And all the grownups around you insisted it was this thing called an “acquired taste”?  But then later you discovered that suddenly your taste buds had changed tremendously and it wasn’t the worst thing in the world? In fact, it was pretty good? For me, that was Athens (and fizzy water. Currently experimenting with shrimp). 

My first trip to Athens was overshadowed in part by late arrivals, slightly sub-par lodging, an underwhelming Acropolis on a scorching day, as well as a stressful goodbye to my boyfriend, which included me crying into my Greek salad alone in a taverna and the old man running the place getting me a to-go box from across the street because I had ordered too much  because I was used to ordering for two, rather than one. (Yes, I admit it, I cry in public sometimes. Particularly on planes and, apparently, at Greek restaurants. I conveniently left that out of last year’s post.) 
Well, this time around, Boris was determined to show me the Athens he loved. We had 2 nights and a day-and-a-half to change my mediocre experience of Greece’s capital to a much better one.
 Mission: accomplished! Here’s how!
We drank coffee, Greek-style. This meant sitting in a café, preferably outside with tables on the sidewalk or a patio, for 2 hours. 
We explored areas of the city NOT on a tourist’s checklist. Where Boris had studied was in a much less touristed area of the city, so we headed there for an afternoon walk. Just getting away from the furor of Monastiraki, with all its shopping, and away from the Acropolis, with all the sales pitches and high taverna prices, was a nice breath of fresh air. We didn’t go in, but there are public gardens where you can walk, too. 
We watched the sunset from the highest point in Athens. If you’re in Athens, I highly recommend going Nike on your itinerary’s ass and JUST DO IT. Lycabettus Hill is a nice (but steep) walk up from the Kolonaki district of Athens; if you’re feeling worn out, there’s a funicular; if you’re feeling swanky, there’s a beautiful restaurant on the top, too. From there, you can see all of Athens, including the Acropolis, the sea, the domino-like sprawl of the city, itty-bitty people coming out on their balconies to watch the sunset, too. Two Greek soldiers also came to take the flag down, which was a nice ritual to watch.
Athens is so deserty! It’s like home!
I guess the panorama setting on my camera works…
Hi!
I wish I had the camera skills to take better sunset photos slash how to use a real camera.
Lowering the flag
Folding the flag

We got local advice on where to eat. Boris wanted to go to dinner in the area of Pankrati, and on our way along Agras we asked directions from two folks taking advantage of their porch. The woman vehemently recommended Επ’ Αυλη, at the corner of Agras and Arximedous Streets. She even was specific about telling us to tell this one specific waiter who had sent us. So we did. And we were NOT disappointed. I’m pretty sure it was the best meal I’ve had in Greece ever, from start to finish. The service was excellent, as was the atmosphere: an upstairs terrace with twinkle lights and a varied clientele. Stuffed mushrooms, meatballs, lentil salad and horta (steamed chicory salad) were our choices, and without asking we were also brought chocolate cake for dessert. A perfect meal.
We exercised. This sounds weird, probably, but it felt good to play a couple hours of volleyball with some friends in front of the stadium in Pankrati where the first modern Olympics were held. Although still very hot at 6:00 p.m. we managed to have a blast and get a good workout in, which is always good when you’ve been sitting on busses or riding ferries or being generally immobile as part of travel. (That day, we hadn’t been particularly immobile, but whatever, it still felt great!)
All of these sights and tastes and sounds completely changed my view of the city. No longer was it just a place to catch a ferry or fly into, nor was it a place just to see the ancient sites and get sunburned on the Acropolis. Plus, I got to see it all with Boris. His excitement at taking me to these places where he had such fond memories was just as important as were the places themselves.
Top of the little church